Get the Look - Girl Next Door!

This Pro is a lover of old black and white movies from the 1930’s, 40’s and 50’s! Who doesn’t love the glitz and glamour of Greta Garbo, Betty Davis, Joan Crawford, Sophia Loren or Vivian Leigh? But, my favorite is the innocence of characters created by actresses such a Judy Garland (Wizard of Oz), Joan Fontaine (Rebecca), Jean Parker (Little Women), Grace Kelly (The Country Girl) Lena Horne (Stormy Weather) and Debbie Reynolds (Singing in the Rain).

The classic “girl next door” look has been created and recreated over and over again throughout movie making history. Sissy Spacek, Cybill Shepherd and Farrah Fawcett had the “all-American” face and today actresses such as Zooey Deschanel, Anne Hathaway, Zoe Saldana, Reese Witherspoon, Gong Li, Jessica Alba and America Ferrera are considered the quintessential “girl next door,” but with a modern, sexy twist!

Back in the glory days of Hollywood, studios would “groom” starlets to fit a certain “type.” For instance, Judy Garland, who was born Frances Ethel Gumm in 1922, was signed on to an extremely long-term contract with MGM at the tender age of 13.

She was older than most traditional child stars, but the studio knew that Judy was going to be their big money-maker and they were right! “Raised” properly and photographed in a certain light with hair, makeup and wardrobe befitting a young, innocent girl, the studio marketed her image to the world and reaped a huge profit in return!

But, did you know that Judy literally “lived” on the MGM Studio lot most of her young life? Attending school with Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner and Lana Turner and growing up on a sound stage exacerbated her insecurities to the point where she was forced to wear caps on her teeth and rubberized disks to reshape her nose. I guess it didn’t help that the Studio Chief, the famous Louis B. Mayor, nicknamed her “the little hunchback!” She was “cute” and her looks did not exemplify a glamorous persona. She was a tiny little “girl” at 4 feet 11 inches, but had a voice as tall as a mountain!

Fast forward to the 1960’s when a gorgeous blonde beauty born Cybill Lynne Shepard beacame a “star” by appearing in The Last Picture Show as Jacy. She captivated our hearts and sky rocketed as a model when the trend changed from Twiggy-type waifs to more curvy “real woman” images!

Enter Breck Shampoo circa 1968 and you will discover Cheryl Tiegs, Jaclyn Smith and Christie Brinkley were among the most memorable “girls next door.” Or how about Marcia Brady? C’mon! It’s okay to admit that you wanted to live next door to the Brady family and have Marcia be your best friend, only because you had a crush on Greg and thought that by being Marcia’s friend, he would take you to the Prom! Or maybe you were a Partridge Family fan?

Our nation’s "all-American" look definitely was more defined by women (or girls) who were blonde-haired and fair-skinned, but fast-forward to the 1980’s and you will discover Molly Ringwald. She was born in a quiet little town just outside of Sacramento, California when she got her “big break” playing the role of Molly Parker on the Facts of Life.

However, her most memorable performances are portraying moody, awkward teen characters in Sixteen Candles, The Breakfast Club and Pretty in Pink, which were written specifically for her by the late John Hughes. She was a freckle-faced, red head with a spunky attitude, but none-the-less, she looked more like the “real” girl next door, then that of a super model. She was believable and we as young girls in the 80’s completely identified with her and the emotional characters she brought to life.

In today’s world, our society is a melting pot of gorgeous "all-American" women with ethnicities that scream “modern world” instead of “middle-ages!” We embrace beauty regardless of skin color and are inspired by all shapes and sizes of women!

You can sport the “girl next door” look everyday! It is a simple as putting your hair in a ponytail, pulling on a pair of Levi jeans, a white t-shirt from the Gap and a pair of cowboy boots!

Gather your supplies:

Foundation/Tinted Moisturizer

Concealer

Setting Powder

Neutral Eye Shadow

Bronzer

Peach Blush

Mascara

Eyeliner

Nude Lip Pencil

Lipgloss – pink, peach or nude

Product recommendations and how-to:

This Pro always recommendations prepping your skin properly before applying any cosmetics. Using a great skincare and primer is a must in achieving the “girl next door” look, which begins with clean, clear, radiant skin.

Pro Tip: This is not a “heavy” or “made-up” look – each product should be lightly applied and blended to achieve a natural face!

Foundation/Tinted Moisturizer/Concealer – begin by examining your skin in the mirror and deciding if you need a full coverage foundation, tinted moisturizer or maybe you just need to conceal a few problem areas. I love Laura Mercier’s Oil-Free Tinted Moisturizer. It is a great bang-for-your-buck giving you three products in one, moisturizer, SPF and foundation.

If you like the coverage of a foundation, try using Visiora Powder Foundation which is heavier on the skin, but may cover your skin issues eliminating your need for concealer and a setting powder. Visiora also has more of a pink undertone, which can create a natural flush to your skin possibly ruling out the need for blush color.

This Pros concealer recommendation is Benefit Cosmetics, Realness of Concealness box, which contains every possible product you could possibly need to conceal a skin flaw! This little kit has a mini collection of Benefits’ most coveted concealers such as Boi-ing, Lemon-Aid, Ooh la Lift, High Beam and Lip Plump.

Setting Powder – it is a makeup “rule” that you must set any crème product before applying a powder product. If you do not follow this step you will most likely look like a “streaky” mess. Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s Sheer Diffusion Cotton Powder is an amazing loose, colorless setting powder made of finely milled cotton. It is formulated to control shine throughout the day making for less touch ups!

Neutral Eye Shadow – This Pro loves Bobbi Brown’s newest take on nude makeup and it is a Fall Season “must-have!” Bobbi’s Nude Eye Palette will effortlessly take you from day to night with universally flattering selections of nude shadows. With three different textures; soft matte, lightly pearlized and metallic shimmer.

To achieve a "girl-next-door" eye begin with the lightest shade of Navajo eye shadow as an all-over wash from lid to brow. Add Chino in the crease and use to line the lower lash line right at the waterline - blend. Finish with a wash of Beige Linen Shimmer all over and blend.

Eyeliner – to complete your natural eye look use a super soft eyeliner pencil. iNuovi Cosmetics makes a great waterproof liner called Fluid Liner and this Pro loves the color Café. This is a perfect liner in pencil form for the “tight lining” technique of the upper lash line area. It is smudge-proof and gives a high pigmentation of color. This product contains Jojoba and cottonseed oil making it very easy to blend. Once set, this liner will last all day with no need for touch up!

Bronzer/Blusher – using a bronzer to enhance your cheekbones and give the illusion of a tanner skin tone, I recommend CoverFX Bronzed FX because they come in an amazing range of color making it easy to achieve a healthy, sunkissed look. Apply lightly under cheekbones and temples across forehead and chin.

On the apples of your cheeks use a gorgeous and warm peach-toned blush like Chiffon from iNuovi Cosmetics. This product line comes in an array of colors making it easy for women of all skin tones to find a peach colored blusher just right for them!

Mascara – you can use either brown or black mascara for this look. This Pro recommends embracing CoverGirl Lash Blast, what could be more "all-American?" Not only is it a fantastic formula that makes your lashes full and lush, it is a drug-store item, which means your wallet will love you!

Nude Lip Pencil/Lipgloss – Smashbox Cosmetics makes an amazing Nude Lip Liner that is ultra creamy! In Fair, Light, Medium and Dark, you will be able to find a match to your lip tone creating a natural, defined look. This product works with any lip color and will make your gloss last for hours.

NARS Cosmetics is this Pro’s favorite when it comes to lipgloss! Complete your look using colors such as Striptease, Stolen Kisses, Sunset Strip, Supervixen or Sweet Dreams!

Following the above instructions will give you a fresh face, wholesome, "all-American" look of the "girl-next-door!" One that will make even Hugh Hefner stand up and take notice!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Groomed eyebrows are an important part in creating a clean look. Make sure you pluck, wax or thread away any stray hairs. Keep them in place with an eyebrow gel and fill in with a matching eyebrow pencil or powder if they are sparse or if you have over plucked!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: step into the unique world of nano-technology, aromatherapy, high-tech ingredients and discover SAMPAR! Learn how to treat and change the effects of environmental pollution on your skin!

Last Looks!

There is a term used in the television and film industry called “Last Looks!” Let’s pretend we are on set and you hear the AD shout that phrase, what you would see next are crew members from the makeup, hair and wardrobe departments jump to attention and rush to spritz, tug and primp the actor/actress before the camera begins to roll.



This Pro likes to apply face powder at the time that “Last Looks” are called because that is when the star of the show or movie must look perfect. Face Powders, whether loose or pressed, set foundation and concealer after application and prepare the face for “powder” cheek and eye color. However, the most important job of a face powder is to minimize shine by soaking up oil or sweat produced by the skin. When working under the hot lights of a movie set trying to keep the skin matte can sometimes be very challenging.



The good news is that there are many “industry” face powders that cross over into the consumer-friendly world of beauty and they are available to you for everyday use (you just need to know where to get them). Also, several mass-marketed cosmetic lines manufacture face powders that work miracles and require little touch-up during the day (you just need to know what they are)!

But first, here are the basics…

Loose Powder: dense texture and provides more coverage. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Matte or sheer finish.

Pressed Powder: same properties as a loose powder “pressed” into a compact. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Less coverage because it dispenses small amounts of product on face. Matte or sheer finish. Best for touch-ups.

Color: like foundation and concealer, face powders are sold in a range of colors to match the skin tone. Translucent powder is invisible and is preferred by this Pro.

Ingredients: the most common ingredients in face powders are talc, cornstarch mica and zinc. If you are allergic to any of those elements, we recommend switching to mineralized powder products, which may be better for you.

Tools: a powder brush is large and dome shaped picking up less product and allowing for a sheer application. Use a powder puff to apply a heavier amount to face and gently blot or press into the skin; sweeping the puff will cause a “streaking” effect on the face. The sponge is used in the same manner as puff and applies a sheer amount.

Other: very oily skin can change the color of powder. If you use a colored face powder, choose a color that is 1 or 2 shades lighter than your foundation to allow for oxidation.

Issues: most women suffer from cakey powder application and one of the most common misconceptions is that too much powder was applied. While that could be true, it is more likely that the skin was not prepped properly: either not enough or too much moisturizer was applied to the skin. That situation can cause the face powder to have too much “grab” and where the build up of product occurs is most likely where the moisturizer application was uneven or not absorbed properly prior to makeup application.

Here is a valuable tip: prep skin with all accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye cream, primer, etc.) and allow 10 minutes to absorb. Fold up facial tissue into a square and “blot” excess product and oil off skin. Now begin application of cosmetics.

Another common problem is flakiness after powder application, which is caused by the skin being too dry and solved by simply bumping up the amount of moisturizer used in skin prep (but not too much because you will have the Cakey problem above). Tricky huh? But, with practice and over time, you will discover your inner makeup artist and kiss those issues good-bye!

Here is a list of products that this Pro recommends:

Cinema Secrets Translucent Powder - typically an “industry” product perfect for setting foundation. Finely milled, clump-free, antiperspirant powder. Translucent formula or available in several warm shades. Purchase on line at www.professionalsecrets.stores.yahoo.net.



Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s The Powder– loose, colorless setting powder made of finely milled cotton for maximum absorbency and controls shine throughout the day. Sheer coverage and works on all skin tones. Available online at www.sephora.com or www.triciasawyer.com.



Visiora PC Powder Compact - this is Dior's "industry" line and is incredible to set foundation or used on bare skin. Heavier coverage with a matte, satin finish. Good for all skin tones and types. This is the choice of many Pro MUAs. Available online at www.camerareadycosmetics.com.



Graftobian Face Powder – works with all skin tones and types and provides a soft, matte finish. Minimizes shine. Available online at www.paintandpowderstore.com.



Make Up Forever HD Microfinish Powder -
a universal translucent finishing powder can be worn alone to reduce shine or applied to set foundation. Completely evens out the complexion and is made of 100% mineral silica powder. Available online at www.sephora.com.



Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder – this powder reduces fine lines and wrinkles in 10 minutes! It is the first anti-aging powder with skincare built in. Available online at www.smashbox.com or www.sephora.com.



Eve Pearl Photo Finish Pressed Powder Neutral – apply with powder puff in rolling motion across the face to set foundation. This is a light-diffusing, sheer pressed powder that eliminates shine and to defuse skin discolorations. Perfect for travel. Available online at www.evepearl.com.



MAC Blot Powder – this is an industry standard with many color ranges to perfectly match your skin tone. Provides shine control without adding noticeable color or texture. Absorbs excess oil and reduces shine. Available at www.maccosmetics.com or at fine retailers.



Purely Cosmetics’ Finishing Powder – this mineral makeup line does not use fillers, preservatives or irritating ingredients that can cause breakouts on the skin. This product line is quickly becoming the preferred mineral line for all age groups and works especially well for women with more mature skin. It aids in oil absorption and adds a smooth, matte finish to skin. This powder is colorless and is made of 100% pure silk. Perfect for those seeking a natural mineral cosmetic line. This Pro also recommends this product for young adults and teens. Purchase online at www.purelycosmetics.com.



“All right Mr. De Mille, I’m ready for my close-up.” And so will you! Before you step out of the house, or into the office for the big interview, or answer the door for that hot date, don’t forget to take a “Last Look!” A final set of powder will help your makeup stay put through life’s big moments!



PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:
If you suffer from extremely oil skin try using blotting papers before or in between face powder touch ups. This will help to avoid powder buildup in areas around the nose and mouth. Also, if powder tends to cake in the fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area, then avoid excess powdering in that area. Set foundation and concealer placed under eye and do not touch-up frequently during the day. If you feel you have excess eye oil and find that your eye shadow and liner fade during the day, try using a eyelid primer such as Urban Decay’s Eye Shadow Primer Potion available at Sephora.



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO– guest blogger Carissa from Hooked on Beauty! She is a Pro MUA and has a great product review blog. Find out what cosmetic and beauty products she can’t live without personally and professionally!



*above photo credit: Flicker.com

Laying the Foundation!

For my very first post I thought I would jump right in and tackle the product everyone asks about.....Foundation!

We have all pondered the question, "Which foundation is right for me?" Whether we are standing at a department store counter, in the drug store aisles or online searching beauty websites, foundations are a mystery and can be costly if you purchase the product and then discover it was not right for you! I am always asked the question, "Which foundations do I use personally or carry in my professional kit?" So, here are the answers and reviews.

CREME FOUNDATION: Tricia Sawyer Beauty makes the best creme foundation I have used - the formula blends smoothly and won't settle into any fine lines or wrinkles. Invented by celebrity makeup artist, Tricia Sawyer, this foundation consists of two colors (a warm and cool tone) which can be blended together to achieve your exact skin tone match. It also has buildable coverage, which means you can use as much or as little as you need to achieve your desired look. I highly recommend purchasing Tricia Sawyer Beauty's Foundation Brush as well to insure the best application however, if you tend to have very oily skin using a cosmetic sponge to apply this product may work better. I use this product both personally and professionally. This foundation can be purchased in a number of places including: www.triciasawyer.com, online at Sephora.com or from QVC.



LIQUID FOUNDATION: Makeup Forever's Face and Body Liquid Makeup is an incredible product. It is light, fresh and leaves a slight sheen of powder on the skin for a very natural effect. Founder Dany Sanz is a total perfectionist and only creates products that work. I keep this product handy for use on all of my clients who prefer a liquid foundation over a creme. You can purchase Makeup Forever at any local Sephora.



I also love L'Oreal's True Match Foundation. If you mainly shop drugstore brands then this is the foundation you should try. It comes in a rainbow of colors with warm, neutral, cool & depth undertones depending on your skin color. Goes on smoothly with a sheer coverage. Doesn't leave your skin feeling dry or oily. Carried at all the major drug stores such as CVS, Longs, Rite Aid and Walgreens and also available at Target, Walmart and some grocery stores.



POWDER FOUNDATION: Nars Cosmetics makes one of the best powder foundations available to consumers. I keep the entire powder foundation line in my kit because I found that it performs well for film and television with incredible coverage and because men prefer this type of foundation over a heavy creme or liquid application. I also use it for contouring and for blush because of it's amazing pigmentation. Sold at Nars online, Sephora and other high-end retailers.



I also love MAC Cosmetics Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation and use it on several of my younger clients. Provides great coverage and comes in a variety of shades. Sold at MAC Stores, MAC online or Nordstrom.



TINTED MOISTURIZERS: I love Laura Mercier's Tinted Moisturizer (Oil Free)! It is a wonderful oil free, lightweight, buildable foundation that works with all skin types, especially those with sensitive, oily or acne prone skin. It controls dryness, prevents excessive oil buildup and provides sun protection with a built-in SPF 20. Great for teens! I use this product personally and professionally. Sold at Sephora and Nordstrom.



MINERAL FOUNDATION: There are several products available to you if you prefer a more natural approach to your foundation. Bare Escentuals is the most popular of all the mineral brands and it does a great job in providing the skin with pure ingredients, free of preservatives, talc, oil, fragrance and other skin irritants. It also has a built-in SPF-15 and is a very fine, loose powder. I have used Bare Escentuals personally and enjoyed the feeling and coverage, but on a professional basis I can not use mineral product because of coverage needs when shooting film, television or print, as well as I have found that mineral makeup tends to have a reflective nature when used with flash photography.



ETHNIC FOUNDATION: If you are a person who has darker skin and have a hard time finding a foundation that matches your skin tone, here are a few cosmetic companies that might have a product to meet your needs:

MAC Cosmetics - has many foundations in creme, powder and liquid form that should have a match for you.



Black Radiance is a drug store brand catering to African American women. This foundation comes in a creme foundation form (in a stick-type formula). It is lightweight and has an SPF 15. You can purchase Black Radiance at CVS, Walgreens and other retailers.



Thevi Cosmetics is an online retailer representing consumers of the Asian, South Asian, Hispanic, Middle Eastern, African and Mediterranean descent. They make an incredible liquid powder foundation with an SPF 15. This product is enriched with Vitamins E and C for anti-oxidant protection and Vitamin A for skin conditioning. You can purchase this product at www.thevicosmetics.com.



I carry the MAC Cosmetic brand in my professional kit and use it on all types of ethnicity's. I have found that in my line of work when I need a heavier type of coverage that this cosmetic line works the best however, I do know several women who swear by MAC for everyday use.

A few more foundation lines that I enjoy and use professionally:

Dior, Cle de peau, Era Cosmetics, Prescriptives, Chanel, Visiora, Bobbi Brown (these are all in my professional kit).

As with all foundation, concealer or powder, please make sure your skin is properly prepped with a good skin care regime and primer prior to applying coverage cosmetics.

TIP OF THE DAY: Creams on top of creams - powder on top of powder! In other words - if you are using a creme or liquid foundation make sure to set it with a translucent powder prior to applying any type of powder blush or shadow! If you are using a creme blush - use right after foundation or concealer and then powder to set!

Please remember that this blog is based on my professional opinion and all product reviews are based on product performance I have witnessed either from using the product personally or on my clients professionally. I hope I was able to provide you with concrete advice and help regarding foundation products and please let me know if you have tried another type of product I have not listed here. I am always on the look out for the next "best" foundation!