Go Naked!

In My Professional Opinion twisted the arm of our friend and fellow makeup artist extraordinaire, Jose Teneza, until he agreed to guest blog! See, Jose is one of the most knowledgeable artists this Pro knows and he works at...well, we can't tell you, but it is a very large, cosmetic retailer and we knew that he would have the inside "scoop" on natural moisturizers. Check out his review...


Go Naked!! All right…not exactly what you’re thinking but it seems everywhere I turn skincare and cosmetic lines are trying to go “natural!" “Minerals” this, “No Parabens” that, 87% Natural…am I supposed to be comforted by that stat? WHAT’S IN THE OTHER PERCENTAGE?

Working in the skincare and cosmetic field you notice trends - essentially what has been happening is that our skin is becoming more sensitive to ingredients either from allergies or accumulated usage.

Skincare companies have perked their green-colored ears up to this demand, and so it begins…the hunt is on for natural skincare alternatives without controversial ingredients, which can cause irritation and allergic reactions. Is “natural” better? Well, there is definitely something to be said about making sure that your skin will benefit in the long run as opposed to suffering from an accumulation of synthetic binders, sulfates and chemicals that could lead to a reaction.

We are also hearing a lot about peptides, but what exactly are peptides? Peptides are links of amino acids that are essentially natural to our skin. In theory, they are like invisible messengers that send a signal to the lower layers of the skin to create more collagen! Collagen is the structure underneath our skin and as we age, it breaks down producing lines and wrinkles.

Here are two “natural” moisturizer alternatives that have produced results.

Bieux Skin 24 Hour Moisturizer: claims to provide intense hydration and deliver collagen-rebuilding ingredients that immediately firms and soothes skin while preventing lines and wrinkles. What makes Bieux Skin 24 Hour Moisturizer amazing? It’s what is not in it that’s great: No parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances, synthetic dyes, and petro-chemicals. It also has an exclusive peptide complex to smooth and build collagen under the skin (all the better for anti-aging, my friends!).



TECH TIME: For all you tekkie’s out there (that is, those who tend to be obsessed with ingredient lists like I am), here is the run down on all the super high-tech ingredients in the Bieux Skin 24 Hour Moisturizer: Saccaride Isomerate (which helps the skin to retain moisture and intensely hydrates) Hematite Extract (which purports to firm the skin and build collagen), Alpha Arbutin (to even out skin tone and hyperpigmentation gently), and Trylagen complex (a blend of active peptides and proteins that protect and boost the skin’s collagen).

I’ve been test-driving this moisturizer for several weeks now: I have oily skin that gets hideously dry in winter and try as I might, even in humid weather, I have dry patches on my forehead and jawline (I use a 1.0% Retinol treatment every other night and have eczema). Just applying this once a day, I felt an absolute difference on my skin – my skin felt perfectly moisturized with little to no dryness/flakiness or tightness. Layering this under sunscreen did not produce any breakouts, which I found astounding given the thickness of the cream and its ability to really hydrate. My skin looked even and plumped up, minimizing my fine lines and wrinkles.

Bare Escentuals RareMinerals Purely Nourishing Facial Moisturizer: excludes controversial ingredients like parabens, sulfates, petro-chemicals, synthetic fragrances and dyes and Phthalates. It also is totally free of GMO’s, triclosan and does not test on animals (call PETA!). Just like the Biuex Skin moisturizer, it has a patented delivery system to hydrate the skin inside and out! Curiously this is not an oil free moisturizer – it has natural oils, which moisturize and absorb into the skin without causing irritation and sensitivity.



TECH TIME: In addition to natural moisturizing oils, bitter orange and licorice extract to tone and brighten, the new Purely Nourishing Moisturizer has an electrolytic delivery system to hydrate with the star ingredients being trelahose and myrothamnus flabellifolia extract (from an African tree – a “resurrection“ plant). Allegedly these ingredients are antioxidant rich and form a protective layer around cells so that they replump and reform when they are sufficiently hydrated, even after being dehydrated . There is also honeysuckle flower extract and soy, which helps to boost moisturization within the skin for better hydration and moisture retention. Company press says it is “clinically proven to optimize your skin's ability to absorb and retain moisture for plumper, firmer, brighter and healthier-looking skin."

I confess, I was skeptical when this first premiered however, I tried it out and promptly started selling it to EVERYONE! It is a PERFECT companion if you use a powder cosmetic or mineral makeup. But more so, I have found that this absorbs quickly and hydrates beautifully without being greasy or slick. It is also whisper light! I was a little cautious because it has natural oils and minerals in it, but so far the client feedback has been amazing! It is a highly recommended product worth every penny!

And like a certain tax preparer, I too have people! I gave this moisturizer to a friend of mine who frankly doesn’t pay attention to her skin, but knows enough to know that most moisturizers feel heavy to her and leave her feeling oily and shiny. She also complained that most of the over-the-counter moisturizers broke her out. I believe she has been using Purely Nourishing for several weeks – she noticed that her skin feels smooth and hydrated, and she found that unlike other moisturizers, she is less oily later in the day than with other lotions she has tried. I myself have noticed that her skin is brighter, dewier and clearer!

NOTE: The writer, while having 7 years of retail experience in the makeup and skincare industry and as a working makeup artist, is NOT a doctor, and this review should not be taken as or in lieu of actual physician endorsed advice and/or medical advice. If you have a persistent skin condition, seek the advice of a licensed and practicing physician as opposed to self treating with over the counter products.

STAY TUNED:

Up next on In My Professional Opinion: Spring must haves!

Laying the Foundation!

For my very first post I thought I would jump right in and tackle the product everyone asks about.....Foundation!

We have all pondered the question, "Which foundation is right for me?" Whether we are standing at a department store counter, in the drug store aisles or online searching beauty websites, foundations are a mystery and can be costly if you purchase the product and then discover it was not right for you! I am always asked the question, "Which foundations do I use personally or carry in my professional kit?" So, here are the answers and reviews.

CREME FOUNDATION: Tricia Sawyer Beauty makes the best creme foundation I have used - the formula blends smoothly and won't settle into any fine lines or wrinkles. Invented by celebrity makeup artist, Tricia Sawyer, this foundation consists of two colors (a warm and cool tone) which can be blended together to achieve your exact skin tone match. It also has buildable coverage, which means you can use as much or as little as you need to achieve your desired look. I highly recommend purchasing Tricia Sawyer Beauty's Foundation Brush as well to insure the best application however, if you tend to have very oily skin using a cosmetic sponge to apply this product may work better. I use this product both personally and professionally. This foundation can be purchased in a number of places including: www.triciasawyer.com, online at Sephora.com or from QVC.



LIQUID FOUNDATION: Makeup Forever's Face and Body Liquid Makeup is an incredible product. It is light, fresh and leaves a slight sheen of powder on the skin for a very natural effect. Founder Dany Sanz is a total perfectionist and only creates products that work. I keep this product handy for use on all of my clients who prefer a liquid foundation over a creme. You can purchase Makeup Forever at any local Sephora.



I also love L'Oreal's True Match Foundation. If you mainly shop drugstore brands then this is the foundation you should try. It comes in a rainbow of colors with warm, neutral, cool & depth undertones depending on your skin color. Goes on smoothly with a sheer coverage. Doesn't leave your skin feeling dry or oily. Carried at all the major drug stores such as CVS, Longs, Rite Aid and Walgreens and also available at Target, Walmart and some grocery stores.



POWDER FOUNDATION: Nars Cosmetics makes one of the best powder foundations available to consumers. I keep the entire powder foundation line in my kit because I found that it performs well for film and television with incredible coverage and because men prefer this type of foundation over a heavy creme or liquid application. I also use it for contouring and for blush because of it's amazing pigmentation. Sold at Nars online, Sephora and other high-end retailers.



I also love MAC Cosmetics Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation and use it on several of my younger clients. Provides great coverage and comes in a variety of shades. Sold at MAC Stores, MAC online or Nordstrom.



TINTED MOISTURIZERS: I love Laura Mercier's Tinted Moisturizer (Oil Free)! It is a wonderful oil free, lightweight, buildable foundation that works with all skin types, especially those with sensitive, oily or acne prone skin. It controls dryness, prevents excessive oil buildup and provides sun protection with a built-in SPF 20. Great for teens! I use this product personally and professionally. Sold at Sephora and Nordstrom.



MINERAL FOUNDATION: There are several products available to you if you prefer a more natural approach to your foundation. Bare Escentuals is the most popular of all the mineral brands and it does a great job in providing the skin with pure ingredients, free of preservatives, talc, oil, fragrance and other skin irritants. It also has a built-in SPF-15 and is a very fine, loose powder. I have used Bare Escentuals personally and enjoyed the feeling and coverage, but on a professional basis I can not use mineral product because of coverage needs when shooting film, television or print, as well as I have found that mineral makeup tends to have a reflective nature when used with flash photography.



ETHNIC FOUNDATION: If you are a person who has darker skin and have a hard time finding a foundation that matches your skin tone, here are a few cosmetic companies that might have a product to meet your needs:

MAC Cosmetics - has many foundations in creme, powder and liquid form that should have a match for you.



Black Radiance is a drug store brand catering to African American women. This foundation comes in a creme foundation form (in a stick-type formula). It is lightweight and has an SPF 15. You can purchase Black Radiance at CVS, Walgreens and other retailers.



Thevi Cosmetics is an online retailer representing consumers of the Asian, South Asian, Hispanic, Middle Eastern, African and Mediterranean descent. They make an incredible liquid powder foundation with an SPF 15. This product is enriched with Vitamins E and C for anti-oxidant protection and Vitamin A for skin conditioning. You can purchase this product at www.thevicosmetics.com.



I carry the MAC Cosmetic brand in my professional kit and use it on all types of ethnicity's. I have found that in my line of work when I need a heavier type of coverage that this cosmetic line works the best however, I do know several women who swear by MAC for everyday use.

A few more foundation lines that I enjoy and use professionally:

Dior, Cle de peau, Era Cosmetics, Prescriptives, Chanel, Visiora, Bobbi Brown (these are all in my professional kit).

As with all foundation, concealer or powder, please make sure your skin is properly prepped with a good skin care regime and primer prior to applying coverage cosmetics.

TIP OF THE DAY: Creams on top of creams - powder on top of powder! In other words - if you are using a creme or liquid foundation make sure to set it with a translucent powder prior to applying any type of powder blush or shadow! If you are using a creme blush - use right after foundation or concealer and then powder to set!

Please remember that this blog is based on my professional opinion and all product reviews are based on product performance I have witnessed either from using the product personally or on my clients professionally. I hope I was able to provide you with concrete advice and help regarding foundation products and please let me know if you have tried another type of product I have not listed here. I am always on the look out for the next "best" foundation!