Cover Up!

In this Pro’s world of television, film and photography makeup sometimes I think I have seen “it” all! However, I am reminded daily that I am naive in having this type of thought process because some people live life on the edge, fulfill their deep desires, wear their hearts on a sleeve and they choose to share it with the world through the art of tattooing.

This Pro does not have a "tat," but I know many who do and I have been asked to use my artistic talent to free-hand tattoos on actors/models or cover up some pretty amazing art work when the “character” is supposed to be a more “innocent” type.

I find tattoos to be the ultimate “art” form because they tell such personal “stories.” People who have tattoos display them proudly and share their life experiences with the world both happy and tragic.

Tattoos announce the birth, marriage, initiation, union or death of many and can appear so life-like that you can feel the emotions of the person displaying these “events” without them ever muttering a word.

However, there are the occasional drunk-off-my-ass type of tats that can be forever a regret in the mind of a young man or woman and usually those are able to be covered up by clothing…sometimes!

This Pro loves watching the reality show L.A. Inked! Kat Von D and her family of incredible artists are extraordinary and create some of the most inspiring pieces of art that I think even Picasso would have found intriguing.

Don’t you wonder what stimulates a person to want to permanently ink their passion onto their skin? I do…I want to know what the stars on Kat Von D’s temple mean to her.

I want to know who, what, where, when, why and how…because I know that there is a testimony behind each mark. A fascinating, funny, fearless, tragic or manic story and to me, tattoos are like reading a book, but the author is standing in front of you eager to share their personal experience and take you with them on a journey!

I find tattoos also frightening and horrific. When an inmate jailed for a lifetime turns to inking his entire body, face included, with eerie words, numbers or symbols. Those who worship a faith that is satanic or killers who proudly display their murderous adventures are too much for this Pro to handle and I feel overwhelming sadness for these people knowing that they are someone’s children and have chosen a path full of hatred.

Most of the time I find that individuals who express themselves through the art of tattooing are creative, loving, free-spirited and maybe a tad bit “naughty!” It is requested of this Pro on most shoots to cover up said “art” especially when it is time for the individual to walk down the aisle or stand-up and support a friend who is walking down the aisle.

I also have been asked many times to help women (never a man) cover up an inked area in order to give them the advantage over a competitor in a job interview. Or on a more rare occasion, I have been begged to school a young soul on covering up the tattoo gone wrong!

Whatever your reason for needing to cover up a tattoo, here is a list of what you will need for a D.I.Y. method:

Cool-toned concealer with yellow undertone 1-2 shades lighter than skin-tone

Warm-toned concealer with orange/red undertone matching skin-tone

EXACT skin-tone match foundation

Sponge

Orange Puff

Setting Powder

Makeup Sealer Spray

Cover up Facts:

Your main objective is to “neutralize” colors in a tattoo. Remember the color wheel theory this Pro has mentioned in past posts? Which colors “cut” colors? Orange cuts Blue, Green cuts Red…etc., that is how you will neutralize the colors of your “inked” area.

However, for this type of quick disappearing act use the above-mentioned product. Don’t try to get fancy with green, purple, yellow or orange primers, concealers or neutralizers. Those usually require special training by a professional and can be more time consuming and frustrating when you feel the “pressure” to make your tattoo invisible.

WARNING: Covering a tattoo should only be done when your tattoo is completely healed! If you choose to cover a fresh tattoo you may cause an infection.

Here is the how-to (small tattoos only):

1. Clean area and use razor to remove hair if needed (this is necessary for makeup to adhere to your skin properly). Dry area thoroughly.

2. Begin with cool-toned, yellow-based concealer and stipple product onto the tattoo with sponge. Build up the coverage if needed. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

3. Use warm-toned, orange/red-based concealer and apply on top of yellow-based concealer lightly using stipple method. Swiping product across the area will only “smudge” and wipe off the first concealer application. Build coverage. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

4. Set with setting powder using orange puff and gently patting powder onto the concealer. Dust off excess powder.

5. Apply EXACT matching foundation using sponge and stipple method over concealer.

6. Set with powder using same method listed in Step 4.

7. Apply spritz of makeup setting spray or fixative.

Pro Tip: I recommend using theatrical, cream concealers and foundations, which are listed below because of there “staying” power, however you can use liquid product, but do not expect the same coverage or lasting results.

While researching this post, this Pro came across an interesting technique used by another makeup artist and I just had to test out this theory…

Using all of the same makeup products listed above, add a red-based lipstick to that group and use it first prior to the yellow-based concealer. Let dry and adhere to skin and then continue with the steps above in the same order. Below are photos of our experiment. I was surprised and excited by our results!

Pro tattoo cover-up product recommendations:

Yellow-based concealer: Lemon-Aid by BeneFit or Ben Nye’s Mellow Yellow Neutralizer.

Orange/Red based concealer: CoverBlend Concealer in various shades.

Cream-based Foundation: Cinema Secrets, Graftobian or Ben Nye theatrical foundations. Also, CoverFX Total Coverage Cream Foundation or Dermablend camouflage makeup are good alternatives if you are unable to purchase a theatrical product.

Setting Powder: Cinema Secrets theatrical setting powder. Comes in translucent or skin-tone hues.

Makeup Sealer: Skindanivia Makeup Setting Spray.

Specialty Products: Tattoo Camo Makeup, which includes Camo Paste that will hide all colors of tattoos. The kit contains paste/setting powder/remover. CoverBlend Corrective Leg and Body Makeup will cover most blue/green ink. Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer found at your local Sephora has you covered!

These same instructions and products can also help cover major skin "issues" and discolorations. If you suffer from Rosacea or other types of skin related or genetic problems try the tips above, they should provide and satisfy your need for coverage.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If you are “sleeved” or your tattoos are covering a large area of skin real estate, then it is the opinion of this Pro that you should hire a makeup artist who specializes in airbrushing. A skilled airbrush artist will be able to properly cover larger areas in a short amount of time and the silicone-based makeup used will have long lasting staying power!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Get the Look! Our Country truly is a gorgeous melting pot! The all-American look comes in many skin tones and you can look as sweet and innocent as the “girl next door” with IMPO’s step-by-step guide!

Chill Out!

"Lights...Camera...Action!"  When the director shouts those three words an actor or actress has to instantly turn that “it” factor volume way up, which can make even the most seasoned professional nervous.  Production lighting + nerves can = melted makeup, unless the MUA is a consummate Pro and knows how to prevent the sweat!

Red Carpet events, rock stars on tour, models in the dessert, 20 retakes, award speeches and steamy love scenes are enough to cause anyone to perspire and it is this Pro’s job to make my clients look as if they are as calm as cucumbers by ensuring that their makeup won't budge, smudge or smear!  It’s not easy and it makes me sweat like a wh@#e in church (but who cares what I look like)!

Now, let’s think about some “real life” scenarios that can make the everyday woman (or man) freak out instead of chill out!  Getting married, graduation, job interview, first date, being a bridesmaid, pitching a new client, first kiss, asking for a raise, making a speech or any type of event where you may be the main attraction!  Right?  Can you feel it:  The perspiration forming in your armpits, the beading on your upper lip, the sweat dripping down the sides of your face?  More than embarrassing I know!

Since you don’t have the luxury of having a professional makeup artist in your face every 5 minutes collecting your DNA on a orange puff loaded with powder or mopping up your body fluids with tissue and retouching your cosmetic like those fortunate celebrities do, how can you make certain that your “big” day won’t be a major makeup meltdown recorded forever in photographs?

Relax!  IMPO is here to save the day!  Lucky for you this Pro is more than willing to let you take a peek inside my kit of magic tricks and share my secret arsenal of stay put product!  Not only do I use these cosmetics on some very famous faces, they are my go-to products when I know the pressure is “on” and that I would more likely be hit by a bus then be able to touch-up my own face!

FOUNDATION:

Make Up Forever Mat Velvet + Matifying Foundation – this is a shine controlling, oil-free, water-resistant, complete coverage liquid foundation.  This product will hide imperfections and even out skin tone.  It mattifies the skin’s appearance and leaves a non-oily, powdered finish.  Apply with foundation brush or sponge. I do layer this product with a concealer if necessary.

Laura Mercier Stick Foundation SPF 15 – this is an oil-free, water-resistant stick foundation that is moisturizing and hydrating, which means that it won’t settle into the fine lines and wrinkles.  It is creamy in texture and will glide onto the skin providing excellent coverage.  Apply with fingertips or sponge.

Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Crème Foundation – if you want to take a stroll down the Pro MUA walk–of-fame give this product a try.  It was developed for Graftobian by Brad Look who is a major “player” in the world of Hollywood.  Made for extensive use on-set under the professional lights of a sound stage or location shoot, you can visit the Graftobian website and discover your equivalent color match to the foundation product you are currently using and with over 50 shades to choose from, finding your exact skin tone counterpart is easy.

CONCEALER:

Amazing Cosmetics Amazing Concealer – this is a full-coverage concealer ideal for any type of skin imperfection.  It is highly pigmented and super-emollient, which means you can kiss those dark circles goodbye and it will blend into the skin easily.  Waterproof formula insures that it will stay put throughout activity.  Apply with concealer brush, sponge or fingertip.

SETTING POWDER:

Cinema Secrets Translucent Powder – perfect for setting all liquid or cream cosmetic in preparation for powder product application.  Apply using large powder brush, sponge, or puff.  Gently buff into skin.

BRONZER:

Dior Bronze Matte Sunshine SPF 20 – this bronzer is what this Pro uses personally and professionally.  Provides a beautiful, even faux-tan look that is matte, shine-free and is a water-resistant formula perfect for contouring the face.

MULTI-USE:

Becca Beach Tint – this is a gorgeous blendable crème stain for cheeks and lips that is appropriate for all skin types.  Kiss-proof and water-resistant, it dries without leaving streaks.  I layer this under powder blush, bronzer and lip glosses for added staying power and to increase color intensity.

BROW PENCILS:

Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s Brow Define Pencil – incredible color with a smudge-proof formula.  Skinny tip allows you to fill in your brows creating the illusion of hair.  Easy to blend and is available with refillable leads.

CRÈME EYE SHADOW:

Shu Uemura – this is the shadow that this Pro uses when I am shooting for 14 hours a day!  Soft, blendable and waterproof with an intense color payoff.  Matte and pearl texture allow for total artistic control.  Easy to layer under powder eye shadow to give it more staying power.  Never creases, smears or fades.

EYE LINER:

Pencil – Make Up Forever Aqua Eyes is a two-in-one eyeshadow and liner pencil  Waterproof formula adheres to the eyelids and resists water even under the most extreme conditions.  Holds color without fading.

Gel – Bobbi Brown Long Wearing Gel Eyeliner – this eyeliner offers the precision of a liquid liner, but it is easier to apply and blend.  Very saturated, smudge proof and comes in a variety of matte or shimmer colors to match any occasion.

Cream – Make Up Forever Aqua Creamliner – totally waterproof cream formula that gives an intense, precise finish.  Extremely long-lasting and comes in a multitude of matte colors.

MASCARA:

Dior DiorShow Iconic Extreme Waterproof Mascara – if you need showgirl style lashes for your important day but don’t want to wear false lashes, then this is the mascara for you!   This Pro loves this mascara in both the original and waterproof formulas.

Imju Fiberwig – the other Pro loves Imju because the brush is thin and allows for complete saturation of the upper and lower lash line with ease in application.  Dries instantly.

LIPS:

Lorac Co-Stars – this is an eight-hour, long wearing lip color and glossy top coat.  Created by Carol Shaw, top Hollywood Makeup Artist, you can create gorgeous, glam lips without worrying about your color lasting throughout the day.  Smudge-proof, non-drying and provides full-coverage.

SETTING SPRAY:

Skindinavia Makeup Finishing Spray - this is my secret weapon!  Apply over makeup to set, hold and extend cosmetic wear.  Heat and humidity resistant, it cuts my touch-ups in half! Prevents makeup from melting, sliding and fading. Dries instantly.  

So, if you want your makeup to last longer than most Hollywood marriages, pick up a few of the products listed above and you can rest assure that you will look amazing throughout all of life’s big moments!

PRO TIPS & TRICKS:

Skindinavia has several types of finishing sprays for every aspect of a girl's life!  Try 10 Years Younger, Dance, No More Shine, Cool Flash, Bridal and Jet Set.  I gave my mom the Cool Flash Finishing Spray when she was suffering from hot flashes and this product helped her immensely!  It is also great for those with very active lifestyles or live in warm climates.  Take it with you on vacation or to the gym when you workout!  The cooling technology "chills" the makeup surface, like turning on your body's personal air conditioner!  Skindinavia is this Pro's secret for summer-proofing makeup!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Beach Babe!  Are you a die-hard makeup girl that can't bare to not wear cosmetics even to the beach?  Then you won't want to miss the next post from IMPO featuring appropriate makeup for your inner mermaid!

Last Looks!

There is a term used in the television and film industry called “Last Looks!” Let’s pretend we are on set and you hear the AD shout that phrase, what you would see next are crew members from the makeup, hair and wardrobe departments jump to attention and rush to spritz, tug and primp the actor/actress before the camera begins to roll.



This Pro likes to apply face powder at the time that “Last Looks” are called because that is when the star of the show or movie must look perfect. Face Powders, whether loose or pressed, set foundation and concealer after application and prepare the face for “powder” cheek and eye color. However, the most important job of a face powder is to minimize shine by soaking up oil or sweat produced by the skin. When working under the hot lights of a movie set trying to keep the skin matte can sometimes be very challenging.



The good news is that there are many “industry” face powders that cross over into the consumer-friendly world of beauty and they are available to you for everyday use (you just need to know where to get them). Also, several mass-marketed cosmetic lines manufacture face powders that work miracles and require little touch-up during the day (you just need to know what they are)!

But first, here are the basics…

Loose Powder: dense texture and provides more coverage. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Matte or sheer finish.

Pressed Powder: same properties as a loose powder “pressed” into a compact. Applied with brush, sponge or powder puff. Less coverage because it dispenses small amounts of product on face. Matte or sheer finish. Best for touch-ups.

Color: like foundation and concealer, face powders are sold in a range of colors to match the skin tone. Translucent powder is invisible and is preferred by this Pro.

Ingredients: the most common ingredients in face powders are talc, cornstarch mica and zinc. If you are allergic to any of those elements, we recommend switching to mineralized powder products, which may be better for you.

Tools: a powder brush is large and dome shaped picking up less product and allowing for a sheer application. Use a powder puff to apply a heavier amount to face and gently blot or press into the skin; sweeping the puff will cause a “streaking” effect on the face. The sponge is used in the same manner as puff and applies a sheer amount.

Other: very oily skin can change the color of powder. If you use a colored face powder, choose a color that is 1 or 2 shades lighter than your foundation to allow for oxidation.

Issues: most women suffer from cakey powder application and one of the most common misconceptions is that too much powder was applied. While that could be true, it is more likely that the skin was not prepped properly: either not enough or too much moisturizer was applied to the skin. That situation can cause the face powder to have too much “grab” and where the build up of product occurs is most likely where the moisturizer application was uneven or not absorbed properly prior to makeup application.

Here is a valuable tip: prep skin with all accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye cream, primer, etc.) and allow 10 minutes to absorb. Fold up facial tissue into a square and “blot” excess product and oil off skin. Now begin application of cosmetics.

Another common problem is flakiness after powder application, which is caused by the skin being too dry and solved by simply bumping up the amount of moisturizer used in skin prep (but not too much because you will have the Cakey problem above). Tricky huh? But, with practice and over time, you will discover your inner makeup artist and kiss those issues good-bye!

Here is a list of products that this Pro recommends:

Cinema Secrets Translucent Powder - typically an “industry” product perfect for setting foundation. Finely milled, clump-free, antiperspirant powder. Translucent formula or available in several warm shades. Purchase on line at www.professionalsecrets.stores.yahoo.net.



Tricia Sawyer Beauty’s The Powder– loose, colorless setting powder made of finely milled cotton for maximum absorbency and controls shine throughout the day. Sheer coverage and works on all skin tones. Available online at www.sephora.com or www.triciasawyer.com.



Visiora PC Powder Compact - this is Dior's "industry" line and is incredible to set foundation or used on bare skin. Heavier coverage with a matte, satin finish. Good for all skin tones and types. This is the choice of many Pro MUAs. Available online at www.camerareadycosmetics.com.



Graftobian Face Powder – works with all skin tones and types and provides a soft, matte finish. Minimizes shine. Available online at www.paintandpowderstore.com.



Make Up Forever HD Microfinish Powder -
a universal translucent finishing powder can be worn alone to reduce shine or applied to set foundation. Completely evens out the complexion and is made of 100% mineral silica powder. Available online at www.sephora.com.



Smashbox Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder – this powder reduces fine lines and wrinkles in 10 minutes! It is the first anti-aging powder with skincare built in. Available online at www.smashbox.com or www.sephora.com.



Eve Pearl Photo Finish Pressed Powder Neutral – apply with powder puff in rolling motion across the face to set foundation. This is a light-diffusing, sheer pressed powder that eliminates shine and to defuse skin discolorations. Perfect for travel. Available online at www.evepearl.com.



MAC Blot Powder – this is an industry standard with many color ranges to perfectly match your skin tone. Provides shine control without adding noticeable color or texture. Absorbs excess oil and reduces shine. Available at www.maccosmetics.com or at fine retailers.



Purely Cosmetics’ Finishing Powder – this mineral makeup line does not use fillers, preservatives or irritating ingredients that can cause breakouts on the skin. This product line is quickly becoming the preferred mineral line for all age groups and works especially well for women with more mature skin. It aids in oil absorption and adds a smooth, matte finish to skin. This powder is colorless and is made of 100% pure silk. Perfect for those seeking a natural mineral cosmetic line. This Pro also recommends this product for young adults and teens. Purchase online at www.purelycosmetics.com.



“All right Mr. De Mille, I’m ready for my close-up.” And so will you! Before you step out of the house, or into the office for the big interview, or answer the door for that hot date, don’t forget to take a “Last Look!” A final set of powder will help your makeup stay put through life’s big moments!



PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:
If you suffer from extremely oil skin try using blotting papers before or in between face powder touch ups. This will help to avoid powder buildup in areas around the nose and mouth. Also, if powder tends to cake in the fine lines and wrinkles around the eye area, then avoid excess powdering in that area. Set foundation and concealer placed under eye and do not touch-up frequently during the day. If you feel you have excess eye oil and find that your eye shadow and liner fade during the day, try using a eyelid primer such as Urban Decay’s Eye Shadow Primer Potion available at Sephora.



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO– guest blogger Carissa from Hooked on Beauty! She is a Pro MUA and has a great product review blog. Find out what cosmetic and beauty products she can’t live without personally and professionally!



*above photo credit: Flicker.com