Quick Fix!

In the world of professional makeup artistry, regardless of the genre you work in, there comes a time when you need a “quick fix!”  In my world I have seen it all!  Every skin sin and irritation, those sun damaged divas, age that seems to march across the face, sleep deprived or depressive skin, the overly caffeinated and dehydrated beauties, obsessive tattooing and those unfortunate souls with self inflicted wounds that need hiding!

It is not my job to judge, discriminate or lecture…it is my job to make my clients look beautiful and feel confident (even in their out of control worlds).  So, I thought my blog post today would be about a few products which give my clients the “quick fix” they need to make it through their day and these products carry over into the “real” world which can help you get through yours!

Let’s start with skin…sometimes when I am in my makeup room waiting for my client to arrive, I fantasize about a world where everyone has gorgeous skin!  No one has to ever scrub, exfoliate, slather or endure hours of laser treatments, but alas I live and work in a world of imperfection and so I will grab the following products to help skin regain its happiness…

Embryolisse Lotion Micellaire is a product that gently cleans, softens, soothes and tones the skin without needing to be rinsed.  It does it all and it does it quickly!  It removes eye makeup, face makeup and preps the skin instantly to receive primer.  Basically, if my client is coming into the makeup room for a quick change of makeup or is arriving from a long night where most of the makeup is still on his/her face and there is no time to properly cleanse…this product saves the day!

Talika Eye Decompress patches are a model, actress/actor and my best friend!  Instantly revives tired eyes!  It is an eye treatment or a therapeutic eye “mask” if you will that nourishes the eye area and minimizes bags, fine lines and dark circles.  So soothing that I have actually fallen asleep during the 7 minutes it takes to activate this product!  Truly refreshing and a quick pick-me-up for the eyes!

SAMPAR Paris Prodigal Pen is a gift straight from the skincare gods!  I use this product to treat pimples or skin irritations caused by infected or cheap makeup, poor skincare regime and diet.  The essential oils in this product immediately calm the affected area which aides in the success of concealing.  Used over night and by following the manufacturer’s instructions of applying 5 times a day, it will heal most skin issues.  I have seen it work on blackheads, bug bites, rashes and on razor burn!

Embryolisse Baume Secours Essential Dry Skin Balm is another miracle coming to the SOS rescue for those with chronic dry, dehydrated and flaky skin.  It is like a lip balm for the face (and lips if needed).  It restores moisture instantly and I use it around the nasal labial folds, chin, forehead, etc.  Kiss that peeling, sunburned skin goodbye too!  Shea Butter, Cotton Butter, Apricot Butter and essential fatty acids along with vitamins A and E invigorate the skin.  This product is a tad bit shiny, so make sure you allow time for the skin to absorb this product and you can also blot with a tissue prior to applying other skincare or makeup.

Eve Pearl Anti-Shine Mattifying Gel is a quick, oil absorbing, sheer cover that is ideal for face, hairline and scalp (bald heads only please).  If you suffer from out of control oil or if you have an extremely oily hairline area, than this product will work wonders for you!  The best part is that it is a tinted gel that can be used alone or under foundation without altering the color.  My only complaint is that I wish this product came in a bigger tube!  I have a few bald, male clients that require this treatment prior to HD television shooting and I go through this product quickly!

Eve Pearl Tri-Fold Eyebrow Razor is a perfect tool when I need to fix a client’s eyebrows quickly!  I have also used it to groom the lip and bikini line area, trim inside the nose and ear areas, even out sideburns and to prep smaller skin areas prior to placing false tattoos (like on the knuckles of the fingers and toes – I know, I know…my job is weird)!  This tool is better than plucking because it won’t leave the area red and inflamed!

CoverBlend Leg & Body Makeup conceals a plethora of flaws!  I have used this quick cover on age spots, stretch marks, veins, bruises, birthmarks, wine stains on the face, rosacea and other skin discolorations, scars, sunburns, scratches, rashes, healing wounds and I have used it to cover tattoos (uncolored).  This product is safe to use all over the body, including the face.  It is ideal for swimming or sweating because it is water and smudge resistant.  I layer and build the color using a brush or stipple sponge and I set immediately with a loose powder and makeup fixative spray. It is suitable for all skin types and it comes in 4 colors.

CoverBlend Concealing Treatment Makeup also works well for the same conditions I stated above however, it has an SPF 20 and is light reflecting so I can not use it for HD television, but it works great for “real life” and provides all day coverage and protection.  It is a heavy coverage and thick in consistency straight out of the container, so thin it out with moisturizer or use a damp sponge when blending and build the coverage and it looks more natural on the skin when applying in this fashion.

A few quick fixes that accompany me to the set in every actor bag are M.A.C. Cleansing Tips, which are pre-saturated with a gentle eye makeup remover that soothes and calms the eyes, they are individually packaged and they will quickly fix any smear.

Jao Anti-bacterial Hand Sanitizer completely disinfects without drying the skin or smelling like chemicals.  Will leave your hands clean, moisturized and not sticky, plus it is safe to use on other parts of the body!  Bye, bye smelly arm pits, feet or…other unmentionable areas!!! 

Clean & Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets quickly soak up oil without adding more powder.  They are perfect for in between touch ups and help control product buildup around the nose, chin and forehead.  You can find them at your local drug store and they are inexpensive!  Keep them in your car, personal makeup and gym bag!

In the hair department (which I rarely blog about) are two products that I use constantly!  Sometimes on lower budget shoots, I am also the hairstylist or I need to change hairstyles during a shoot.  I do not have any formal training in this department, however after 20 plus years as a makeup artist, you learn a few things here and there from the hair Pros!

Batiste Dry Shampoo, which I recently received as gratis to try, is a waterless, dry shampoo that refreshes and revitalizes hair in between shampoos.  The key to this product is to shake the can very well and apply in spurts.  Then gently massage into the scalp, leave for a few moments and then brush out.  It’s great for very active people and takes away all the grease or oils.  Bonus is that you can purchase it from any drug store and it comes in a variety of scents and travel sizes!

Leonor Greyl Eclat Naturel is a styling cream that I like to use on hair that is already dry.  It helps detangle and sculpt hair and tams all fly-aways.  It is great to use to shape the hair with fingertips, scrunch for more curl or to smooth and straighten with a round brush and blow dryer.  Completely reconditions the hair and helps protect against hot styling tools.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

To instantly whiten red, tired, irritated eyes I use Collyre Bleu Eyelights by Verseo.  These drops are individually packaged to ensure that the drops are kept fresh and sterile.  These drops also eliminate the yellow-ness in the white part of your eye area.  NOT RECOMMENDED FOR CONTACT LENSE WEARERS!

Cover Up!

In this Pro’s world of television, film and photography makeup sometimes I think I have seen “it” all! However, I am reminded daily that I am naive in having this type of thought process because some people live life on the edge, fulfill their deep desires, wear their hearts on a sleeve and they choose to share it with the world through the art of tattooing.

This Pro does not have a "tat," but I know many who do and I have been asked to use my artistic talent to free-hand tattoos on actors/models or cover up some pretty amazing art work when the “character” is supposed to be a more “innocent” type.

I find tattoos to be the ultimate “art” form because they tell such personal “stories.” People who have tattoos display them proudly and share their life experiences with the world both happy and tragic.

Tattoos announce the birth, marriage, initiation, union or death of many and can appear so life-like that you can feel the emotions of the person displaying these “events” without them ever muttering a word.

However, there are the occasional drunk-off-my-ass type of tats that can be forever a regret in the mind of a young man or woman and usually those are able to be covered up by clothing…sometimes!

This Pro loves watching the reality show L.A. Inked! Kat Von D and her family of incredible artists are extraordinary and create some of the most inspiring pieces of art that I think even Picasso would have found intriguing.

Don’t you wonder what stimulates a person to want to permanently ink their passion onto their skin? I do…I want to know what the stars on Kat Von D’s temple mean to her.

I want to know who, what, where, when, why and how…because I know that there is a testimony behind each mark. A fascinating, funny, fearless, tragic or manic story and to me, tattoos are like reading a book, but the author is standing in front of you eager to share their personal experience and take you with them on a journey!

I find tattoos also frightening and horrific. When an inmate jailed for a lifetime turns to inking his entire body, face included, with eerie words, numbers or symbols. Those who worship a faith that is satanic or killers who proudly display their murderous adventures are too much for this Pro to handle and I feel overwhelming sadness for these people knowing that they are someone’s children and have chosen a path full of hatred.

Most of the time I find that individuals who express themselves through the art of tattooing are creative, loving, free-spirited and maybe a tad bit “naughty!” It is requested of this Pro on most shoots to cover up said “art” especially when it is time for the individual to walk down the aisle or stand-up and support a friend who is walking down the aisle.

I also have been asked many times to help women (never a man) cover up an inked area in order to give them the advantage over a competitor in a job interview. Or on a more rare occasion, I have been begged to school a young soul on covering up the tattoo gone wrong!

Whatever your reason for needing to cover up a tattoo, here is a list of what you will need for a D.I.Y. method:

Cool-toned concealer with yellow undertone 1-2 shades lighter than skin-tone

Warm-toned concealer with orange/red undertone matching skin-tone

EXACT skin-tone match foundation

Sponge

Orange Puff

Setting Powder

Makeup Sealer Spray

Cover up Facts:

Your main objective is to “neutralize” colors in a tattoo. Remember the color wheel theory this Pro has mentioned in past posts? Which colors “cut” colors? Orange cuts Blue, Green cuts Red…etc., that is how you will neutralize the colors of your “inked” area.

However, for this type of quick disappearing act use the above-mentioned product. Don’t try to get fancy with green, purple, yellow or orange primers, concealers or neutralizers. Those usually require special training by a professional and can be more time consuming and frustrating when you feel the “pressure” to make your tattoo invisible.

WARNING: Covering a tattoo should only be done when your tattoo is completely healed! If you choose to cover a fresh tattoo you may cause an infection.

Here is the how-to (small tattoos only):

1. Clean area and use razor to remove hair if needed (this is necessary for makeup to adhere to your skin properly). Dry area thoroughly.

2. Begin with cool-toned, yellow-based concealer and stipple product onto the tattoo with sponge. Build up the coverage if needed. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

3. Use warm-toned, orange/red-based concealer and apply on top of yellow-based concealer lightly using stipple method. Swiping product across the area will only “smudge” and wipe off the first concealer application. Build coverage. Let dry and adhere to skin, approximately 5 minutes.

4. Set with setting powder using orange puff and gently patting powder onto the concealer. Dust off excess powder.

5. Apply EXACT matching foundation using sponge and stipple method over concealer.

6. Set with powder using same method listed in Step 4.

7. Apply spritz of makeup setting spray or fixative.

Pro Tip: I recommend using theatrical, cream concealers and foundations, which are listed below because of there “staying” power, however you can use liquid product, but do not expect the same coverage or lasting results.

While researching this post, this Pro came across an interesting technique used by another makeup artist and I just had to test out this theory…

Using all of the same makeup products listed above, add a red-based lipstick to that group and use it first prior to the yellow-based concealer. Let dry and adhere to skin and then continue with the steps above in the same order. Below are photos of our experiment. I was surprised and excited by our results!

Pro tattoo cover-up product recommendations:

Yellow-based concealer: Lemon-Aid by BeneFit or Ben Nye’s Mellow Yellow Neutralizer.

Orange/Red based concealer: CoverBlend Concealer in various shades.

Cream-based Foundation: Cinema Secrets, Graftobian or Ben Nye theatrical foundations. Also, CoverFX Total Coverage Cream Foundation or Dermablend camouflage makeup are good alternatives if you are unable to purchase a theatrical product.

Setting Powder: Cinema Secrets theatrical setting powder. Comes in translucent or skin-tone hues.

Makeup Sealer: Skindanivia Makeup Setting Spray.

Specialty Products: Tattoo Camo Makeup, which includes Camo Paste that will hide all colors of tattoos. The kit contains paste/setting powder/remover. CoverBlend Corrective Leg and Body Makeup will cover most blue/green ink. Kat Von D Tattoo Concealer found at your local Sephora has you covered!

These same instructions and products can also help cover major skin "issues" and discolorations. If you suffer from Rosacea or other types of skin related or genetic problems try the tips above, they should provide and satisfy your need for coverage.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If you are “sleeved” or your tattoos are covering a large area of skin real estate, then it is the opinion of this Pro that you should hire a makeup artist who specializes in airbrushing. A skilled airbrush artist will be able to properly cover larger areas in a short amount of time and the silicone-based makeup used will have long lasting staying power!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Get the Look! Our Country truly is a gorgeous melting pot! The all-American look comes in many skin tones and you can look as sweet and innocent as the “girl next door” with IMPO’s step-by-step guide!