Spotlight - IMATS Los Angeles

IMATS, the International Makeup Artist Trade Show is one of THE places to be when it comes to your neck of the woods. Started in the 1990s, IMATS is produced by Make-Up Artist Magazine and is considered the premiere gathering for thousands of make-up artists, manufacturers and enthusiasts.

In My Professional Opinion sent two Pro correspondents, Aileen Wrench and Cathi Singh, to the Los Angeles show in June to discover the latest in product, design, and technique. We will, in the coming weeks, share our experiences with some fantastic products we picked up as well as techniques learned in the many classes we attended.

5-Time Emmy Award Winning Celebrity Makeup Artist Eve Pearl, Kevin-James Bennett of Make Up For Ever, 3-Time Oscar Winner Ve Neill, John Stapleton of MAC Cosmetics and Nolan Robert, winner of the Blush television series on LifeTime were just a few of our friends who demonstrated and lectured on techniques and the business of makeup artistry.

The show also featured Dick Smith, world-renown artist and NBC’s first makeup artist. IMPO's Pro attended makeup classes taught by Mr. Smith back in the late 80’s and he helped shape her passion, which would eventually become a 20+ year career! Mr. Smith’s credits include The Exorcist (his most controversial job!), The Godfather, Taxi Driver and Amadeus.

Greg Cannom, the man (and the Oscar winner!) behind the incredible makeup artistry in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button was also in attendance and presented a keynote address. His other credits include: Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl, Master and Commander, The Passion of the Christ, Titanic and A Beautiful Mind.

A Panel Discussion with the special effects crew from the movie StarTrek included Barney Burman, Richie Alonzo, Steve Buscaino, Joel Harlow and Neville Page. The movie features extensive special effects makeup which enhances the character development and the panel talked about the importance of working with an incredible team in order to create one of the biggest block buster films in history!

We must also give a shout out to some of our favorite manufacturers who displayed the latest in hot products: Temptu, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, Make Up For Ever, Ve's Favorite Brushes and Eve Pearl. Of course, the Pro MUA stores were all in attendance: Cinema Secrets, Naimies, Frends and Alcone, all of which provide essential products for the stellar artist and the novice consumer. We would like to take this opportunity to congratulate our dear friend, Eve Pearl whose incredible cosmetic line is now being sold through Naimies!

As you can see, the Los Angeles IMATS show attracted impressive talent and we were so lucky to be in attendance. A very big thank you goes to our good friends at Make-Up Artist Magazine for our press passes and VIP experience! It was a weekend we will never forget! Please enjoy the highlight photos below:

The Apprentice!

Recently, In My Professional Opinion has been receiving emails requesting information regarding beginner professional makeup kits. Questions we have been presented with include: What should an apprentice carry in their kit? Which products are good bang-for-your-buck and work in all types of genres? Where can I get a sturdy, but inexpensive makeup case? Where should I concentrate spending most of my money?

So even if you are not planning on becoming a professional makeup artist, are a YouTube How-to Star, novice, just curious about what is in a Pro’s makeup kit or if you love a good bargain, you will benefit from this blog post – so keep reading!

The Pro’s decided to use these questions when shopping for and testing products at the recent Makeup Show in Los Angeles and here are our suggestions for the Apprentice:

Makeup Cases: there are a few online companies that carry extensive selections of makeup cases made especially for the professional (and the novice if you are a huge beauty junkie). Yazmo.com has a complete line of professional makeup artist cases and cases for everyday use. This Pro’s case is from Yazmo and is called the Pro Aluminum Makeup Case in Silver that sells for $169.95.



This case is able to carry all of the product this Pro uses on any type of professional shoot and comes with many trays and compartments you can customize to fit product or brushes. The case is on in-line skate wheels, which make it easy to maneuver and has a telescopic handle. The lower storage compartment is deep and can hold bottles, palettes or hair needs (blow dryer, etc.). Other online companies include: Alcone, which has a wide variety of set bags and Japonesque. If you are working with a very low budget you can always try a fishing tackle box or gardener’s tool bag – not very glamorous, but they get the job done!.

Brushes: it is the opinion of this Pro that a large chunk of your professional makeup budget should be spent on brushes. Please review the archive post called “Brush Off” for a listing of brush lines this Pro recommends. Remember, these are your “tools” to create a beautiful face and having the right tools makes all the difference in your application. For those on a tight budget check out Crown Brush, which has the largest selection of brushes for you to choose from in prices ranging from $1.99 to $15.99. Whether you decide you want to be a film, television, runway, theatre or editorial makeup artist, having the best brushes you can afford will help build your confidence and technique! Again, this is not the area in which to be frugal – you can take the time to build your brush arsenal by purchasing a few good brushes at a time. Take care of them properly and they will last you 20 years!



Apprentice Kit: every prepared apprentice should show up to the set or backstage with a kit that contains skin prepping products (moisturizers/primers), foundations, concealers and correctors, powder, color products, mascara, liners, lipsticks or gloss. Also, you should pack your kit with disposables such as orange puffs, q-tips, cotton puffs, wipes, lip wands, mascara wands and sponges. Don’t forget to have some brush cleaner and tissues. Your Department Head or Key Makeup Artist will look over your kit and decide which actors/actresses you are able to work on from the contents in your makeup case. The more prepared you are, the better chance you will have to assist with lead characters. If you have a sparse supply of cosmetics, that is okay too, you will most likely work with extras and that has its benefits – remember that all work is good experience and builds your resume!

Bang-for-your-buck: check out the professional industry’s beauty supply companies like Cinema Secrets, Frends, Naimes or Alcone, they will have products with good pigmentation such as lip liners, eye liners, lip sticks and color products at lower prices.






You should have a few palettes of eye and cheek colors in your kit too. Check out Coastal Scents or La Femme (carried at the stores listed above) for great matte and iridescent shadows and blushers. Cinema Secrets’ Translucent Powder will be sufficient for starters and mascaras such as Cover Girl Lash Blast or Max Factor 2000 Calorie work just as well as higher end products. Look for foundations, concealers and corrector lines that provide more than one color in a container, such as MUD (Make-up Designory) foundation and corrector/concealers, which come in palette form and are good if you end up working in HD. If you skimp on foundation or concealers, you will regret the coverage a drug store foundation will provide.



As you become more comfortable working in a professional environment and start making money as a freelance artist, you can begin to fill your kit with higher-end product that work miracles and are prestigious. To be honest, it does make a difference to some actors, actresses and models which cosmetic and product lines you choose to stock your kit with, but don’t let that discourage you. Just set aside a few dollars after each job and begin to build a makeup budget and then attend shows like The Makeup Show or IMATS for great deals on product lines such as Make Up Forever, Temptu, Eve Pearl, Gerda Spillman, Ve’s Favorite Brushes, and Smashbox or you can shop for brands like Dior, Benefit, Nars, Stilla, Cargo and Urban Decay at Sephora. Major cosmetic brands like MAC and Nars offer Pro discounts of up to 40% when you are able to meet their criteria as a professional, make sure to apply for those discounts.

TIPS AND TRIX:
Don’t forget to ask a photographer for a few professional pictures for your portfolio or bring a camera with you to the set (but be careful when snapping photos – some actors/actresses don’t like it and you can be kicked off the set.) Use your common sense and ask your Key Makeup Artist if it is okay to take photos first. Be professional, work quickly and efficiently and remember that no job is “off limits!” If you are asked to help with hair, wardrobe or even craft service – do it! Watch your language and don’t be obnoxious – remember you want to leave a good impression so that you will be asked to apprentice again. If you make a mistake, admit it, ask for help in correcting it and move on. If you are asked to clean the makeup room or trailer that is part of your job as an apprentice and remember, we all started out in your position!

STAY TUNED:
Up next on In My Professional Opinion: Guest Blogger Jose Teneza, professional makeup artist in Baltimore, Maryland says he wants everyone to “Go Naked” or at least have the right information when seeking out natural moisturizers – if you are a natural product lover, you won’t want to miss this informative post!

Photo Credit: Kit photo above borrowed from The Education Blog.

Brush Off!

In the magical world of professional makeup artistry a great artist possess three very important attributes that make them stand out from the crowd - Attitude, Knowledge and...Makeup Brushes.

Professionals invest in quality over quantity and brushes are no exception. Like a writer needs a great pen, a ballet dancer needs the right toe shoes, a photographer needs the best camera, a makeup artist needs amazing brushes! Brushes can enhance an artist’s skill level and they can be a BIG investment, but one that with proper care, can last 20 years!

To look your best everyday whether you are a professional or a novice, investing in good brushes should be a top priority. Let’s start with the basics…

Makeup brushes are divided into three parts: Hair, Ferrule and Handle. Doesn’t sound that complicated right? Well, did you know that there are approximately 13 types of Natural Hair makeup brushes? Badger, Squirrel, Squirrel Mix/Blends, Pony, Raccoon, Ox, Goat, Sable, Kolinksy Sable, Red Sable, Weasel and Pahmi. There are Synthetic brushes – Taklon and Nylon. All these hair types can affect the overall value of the makeup brush hence also their prices.

Confused? Then keep reading!

Natural hair = soft makeup brushes and are mostly manufactured for the larger brushes in an arsenal, such as a Powder, Blush, Contour, Blending, or large Eye Shadow brush. Those types of brushes usually are made from Squirrel, Pony or Goat. Smaller brushes, such as Lip, small Eye Shadow and Eyeliner brushes are also made of natural hair most likely different types of Sables or Pahmi hair.

Natural hair brushes hold or trap the powder cosmetic they pick up so, when you press the brush to your face, you release the powder more effectively with little to no fall out (or in laymen’s terms – the cosmetic goes where you want it to and not where you don’t! Capisce?).

Synthetic brushes are Nylon or Taklon and are not “absorbent” or will not “trap” powder cosmetic to the bristles. They are best used as Concealer, Foundation or creme product applicators. If you have a brush made of synthetic bristles and you are using it for powder products, you probably get “fall out.”

The ferrule of the makeup brush is the metal “tube” designed to hold the glued hair in place and they are usually made of brass, copper or aluminum alloy. Brass is the strongest of the three. Higher end brush lines can also have nickel-plated ferrules for appearance and corrosion resistances.

Today, brush handles can range from acrylics to fancy metals. Most professional artists prefer wood handles for both durability and control.

Now that you have had quite the education on makeup brushes, here is a list of brush lines I use both personally and professionally:

Ve's Favorite Brushes – one of the most renowned makeup artists in the motion picture industry is Ve Neill! She has created the characters for some of the most iconic movies of our time and is a three-time Oscar winner! Now you can own the same brushes Ve uses when she is making up Johnny Depp, Uma Thurman, Sarah Jessica Parker, Edward Norton, Keira Knightly, Robin Williams or Julia Roberts.



Tricia Sawyer Beauty's Foundation and Powder Brushes – hands down these two brushes should be a “must have” in every woman’s arsenal! TSB’s Foundation Brush is made of taklon with a rounded tip, which allows for better blending over the natural curves of the face. TSB’s Powder Brush is made of a natural blend of Squirrel and Pony hair with a wood handle. Designed to buff your powder into your skin when setting your makeup.




adesign Brushes– Shana King’s professional career as a makeup artist includes such national credits as Smirnoff, Cadillac and Cirque Du Soleil and she has created high-profile brand campaigns in the fashion and entertainment industries. She was also the regional manager of over 35 salons for Aveda. She designed this brush line to improve the function and skill of makeup application for both the professional and consumer.



I also use brushes from MAC, Sephora (silver handle pro line), Japonesque and have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of Sonia Kashuk's line for Target.

TIPS AND TRIX:
Taking good care of your makeup brushes is easy and takes very little time. I recommend using Cinema Secrets Brush Cleaner for quick disinfecting. Pour a little brush cleaner on an old, clean towel and wipe the brush gently back and fourth over the towel or pour the brush cleaner into a metal or glass bowl and soak the brush hairs into the cleaner. Gently stroke the brush over a clean towel to remove excess cleaner and place on the side of your bathroom counter to dry. Do not stand your brushes up (or put them back into your brush holder – dry them flat first – or the cleaner will drip down into the ferrule and cause the glue to disintegrate and the hairs will shed or fall out). I also recommend cleaning your brushes with a gentle shampoo (baby shampoo works great), after all – it is made of natural hair (but please don’t use conditioner).

TIME FOR A LITTLE Q&A:

Stacy H. wants to know:
Why do my brush bristles fall out?

Pro suggests:
It’s actually called “shedding” and it happens to brushes sometimes, but if your brush tends to shed all the time, it is time to get a new brush. Here is how you can “test” a brush to see if it is prone to shedding or loosing it’s bristles before you purchase it: Step 1) Run fingers through the hair. Step 2) gently sweep the brush on the back of your hand. Expect a few strands to fall out. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 – if you notice more strands on the back of your hand, pass on the brush and test a different brand.

Kim A. wants to know:
Can dirty brushes cause breakouts?

Pro suggests:
The answer to that question is a big YES!!!! Dirty brushes are full of bacteria and are unhealthy for the skin. They can cause breakouts and rashes because oil, bacteria and makeup build up on the brush. You must clean your brushes regularly to ensure they stay in tip-top condition! My friend Karen, who writes the Makeup and Beauty Blog, suggests using Wet Ones for quick and easy cleaning if you don’t have time to properly shampoo your brushes. Good tip Karen!!!

Christine C. wants to know:
I have under $75 to spend, which brushes would you recommend I purchase?

Pro suggests:
The most important brushes to have in your bag would be the following: Foundation, Powder, Blush, Large Eye Shadow, Small Eye Shadow, Blender, Eyeliner, and Lip. You could also start with a “travel” brush kit and look for the type that have “dual” ended brushes (more bang for your buck because it is like getting two brushes for the price of one).

STAY TUNED:
In My Professional Opinion will be posting a product review featuring the skin care line Jurlique. As always, if you have a comment, suggestion or beauty question, click on the Ask The Pro button on our side bar and send us an email today!