Keep it Clean!

As a Pro MUA there is nothing more disgusting than a crusty, old, smelly cosmetic! It churns my stomach and frustrates me when I see people whip out their nasty powder compact, pick up the filthy puff and dust their face with it to reduce shine! Gag me with a spoon people!

I have worked so long in the makeup industry that simply smelling old mascara or lipstick makes me sick! You know what I am talking about: that…odor! How anyone can get a whiff of that mildew stank and still apply that cosmetic onto their face is beyond me!

Have you ever passed your favorite makeup counter and a new blush or lipstick color catches your eye? Before you reach for that tester, you might want to think twice about who used it before you, and more importantly, how they applied it.

Did you know that those unsanitary testers could contain staph bacteria like the kind found on doorknobs, a variety of different germs, E. Coli and fecal bacteria transmitted by unwashed hands?

You can pick up herpes from a tube of lipstick and conjunctivitis (pinkeye) from contaminated eye pencils, eye shadows or mascara! While it is not exactly a pandemic, it is still amazing to see how many people just don’t care!

Our Contributing Writer Pro is also a freelance artist for Smashbox Cosmetics and she occasionally helps out at the department store counters across Southern California.

She is always stunned and (honestly) sometimes grossed out when a customer grabs that lipstick and just slathers it all over their lips without even the slightest hesitation or consideration to use a disposable applicator.

Our Pro is always trying to disinfect testers because she does not want anyone to have an unwarranted breakout or spread bacteria and germs in the name of the new Summer Lip Gloss Collection!

Even if you are cautious and don’t sample colors from a tester directly on your skin think about the products you currently have in your personal makeup bag. How old are they? How often do you clean your makeup applicators or brushes? How often do you read the expiration dates on the cosmetic labels?

If you have sensitive skin or suffer from acne maybe you pay close attention, but if you just have the normal t-zone shine and your skin is pretty even then I bet you don’t really think much about the sterilization of your makeup, especially your powder product.

As a Pro artist one regulation I must adhere to is to make sure that the product I use daily on many clients doesn’t become tainted with germs and cause someone to suffer medically. Not to mention embarrassing, but that incident could put me at risk financially.

So…how do I make sure the product in my kit doesn’t spread infection? Listen up ladies! The solution is available! It’s called BeautySoClean Cosmetic Sanitizer.

This product debuted at the IMATS show in June and we were lucky enough to get our massively sanitized little hands on a sample. Just one spritz and it “effectively cleans, rejuvenates and removes bacteria from all cosmetics without altering your makeup.” It can be used on all products and all brands; lipstick, blushes, eye shadow, foundation, and even mascaras wands!

This makeup Pro went “nuts” over this and immediately purchased massive amounts of the entire line! This product is totally amazing and will safely remove bacteria from the makeup without drying out the product.

Think about how much money you spend on your cosmetics. They are an investment in “you” just like your skincare, hair products and clothing. When your house, car or clothing gets dirty you clean them, right? Well, clean your beauty products too!

Now here is another thought…

BeautySoClean’s Cosmetic Sanitizer Mist comes in a handy purse-sized spritz bottle and also a larger bottle for home use. It dries very quickly and is ideal for the makeup junkie who wants to try before they buy. Because it won’t harm the cosmetics, you can spray the testers at your local counter and apply with confidence!

It is also a great tool to have when getting all dolled up with your girlfriends for that special night out, use before sharing mascaras and lip liners, give them a quick spritz to sanitize instantly. Make sure that your teenage daughters have a few of BeautySoClean Sanitizers in their personal makeup bags and purses when they go to the local mall to check out the latest cosmetic collections!

When this makeup Pro is working on a dozen models at the same time you can imagine how crazy hectic it is to not only have to sanitize brushes between clients, but also cosmetics. I end up carrying several duplicate brushes, eye shadow and blush colors and always winced when another artist would ask if they could “borrow” something from my kit.

Film and TV makeup artists are raving about BeautySoClean because it is now so easy to prevent cross-contamination and keep the products lasting longer. It has “wowed” Oscar award winners Ve Neill (Pirates of the Caribbean) , Greg Cannom (The Curious Case of Benjamin Button) and Michael Westmore (Mask) who use it in their kits. In fact, Mr. Cannom said, “it’s the best sanitizing product (he has) ever used.”

Here is a list of BeautySoClean products:

Cosmetic Sanitizer Mist – is ideal for powder-based products (eye shadows, blushes, pressed powders) and cream-based products (foundation, concealers, lip glosses in pots).

Cosmetic Sanitizer Wipes (48 wipes) – these wipes are ideal for lipsticks, lip glosses, pencils and mascara wands. Packaged individually for travel.

Conditioning Brush Cleaner – formulated with natural ingredients, which quickly dissolve makeup and residue form brushes ensuring a longer “life” to your brush investment. Can be used on both natural and synthetic makeup brushes.

Cosmetic Sanitizer Wipes jar (60 pads) – these disposable wipes are easy and convenient to use. Good for your bathroom or makeup application area.

The entire BeautySoClean product line cleans, refreshes and removes bacteria from makeup 100% effectively in 10 seconds. This is a smart and easy way to insure that your products are sanitary and that bacteria won’t breed on your makeup!

To order BeautySoClean online go to www.beautysoclean.com

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Spraying 70% isopropyl alcohol directly onto powdered cosmetic will eventually cause the product to dry out and need to be replaced with a fresh product. Using the BeautySoClean Sanitizer will cure those makeup pains and relieves from the stresses of “de-funking” cosmetic products after use!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Body Electric! IMPO brings you the latest and greatest info on cosmetics to use from the neck up, but how about beauty products for the neck down? Okay! Our next post will contain some amazing products that will have your skin and body looking hot!

A Sound Investment!

The Pros have a confession to make…we love to spa! Mani/Pedi, Facials, Massages and Treatments are part of our genetic makeup and the more potions and concoctions we can rub on our skin, the better.

It is so important to take care of your body’s largest organ: lots of water, sunscreen every day, and thorough cleansing. And, like our makeup Pro has always stressed, without good skin care, cosmetics can only do so much for you! We like to recommend facials every two to four weeks, but we realize that facials are a luxury treatment and many people (including us) can’t always afford them as often as we would like to.

On a recent visit to one of our favorite spas, the marketing Pro was treated to a wonderful 75 minute facial which included the Clarisonic®, an award-winning sonic skin cleansing system. For those of you who haven’t heard of the Clarisonic (um, do you live in a cave?), here is some background information on one of the latest cleansing tools for both face and body.

Clarisonic was developed by the same creators of the Sonicare® toothbrush. The waterproof, handheld unit has a soft, gentle brush which oscillates back and forth more than 300 times per second.

Clarisonic is proven to remove 6 times more makeup and 2 times more dirt and oil than manual cleansing. Cleansing this well allows the skin to better absorb skin care products, thus using less and seeing greater results from all those age-defying, youth-enhancing, line-eliminating potions we buy by the gallon.

Dermatologists, Spas and Aestheticians are making the Clarisonic part of their treatments and highly recommend the purchase of a home unit for both face care and now, body care. It effectively cleans without abrasion or harsh chemicals and is gentle for all skin types. Various brush heads are available.

So…. back to my facial:

As quiet Asian-inspired music played, flames from the aromatherapy candles burned and fountains trickled delicately, I relaxed on the luxurious facial table. My aesthetician, Sharone, asked me about my skin type and sensitivity to aromatics and plants and I grimaced to think that my brows probably needed a “tune-up” and “how many extractions is she going to do?”

Sharone gave me the Purifying and Cleansing Facial. This was the recommendation from the spa director, whom I met at a gala. At the event, we began talking the “biz”, beauty that is and she asked if I had the opportunity to use the Clarisonic yet. Since I had not, she immediately handed me her card and said “call me!” Barbara Echols is extremely proud of her staff and service at Avia Spa in Santa Barbara. And I couldn’t agree more!! www.aviaspa.com

This particular facial was 75 minutes and included the following products, as well as a Clarisonic treatment to both my face and décolleté. Sharone is particularly fond of Sundari skincare. Sundari embodies the principles of Ayurveda by containing the purest botanicals and advocating a methodology that seeks to establish ones holistic balance. Sundari focuses on the three skin types, and the products are formulated to address each specific type: Vata is for dry skin, Kapha is for oily skin, and Pitta is for combination skin. www.sundari.com

Products used in my facial were:

Cleanser: Gentle Gel, Neem & Burdock

Exfoliant: Honey Enzyme

Toner: Neem & Aloe Vera

Mask: Neem & Green Tea

Serum/Booster: Essential oil for Normal/Combination

Moisturizer: Neem & Avocado

Eye Cream: Neem & Chamomile Eye Oil

Lip Balm: Omega3 & Mandarine

Body Moisturizer: Gotu Kola & Lotus

My skin felt revitalized and smooth. My sensitive skin left Avia feeling refreshed. I am very pleased with the Sundari line and have started to use the Chamomile Eye Oil regularly. As for the Clarisonic: well, let's just say I couldn't have whipped out my credit card fast enough! The Clarisonic Plus Kit includes:

Cordless Clarisonic PLUS

Universal Charging Cradle (100v-240v AC; 50/60 Hz)

Sensitive Brush Head

Spot Therapy Brush Head

1 oz. trial sizes of Refreshing Gel Cleanser, Gentle Hydro Cleanser and Nourishing Care Cleanser

2 oz. trial size Refining Skin Polish

The Plus Kit runs a little over $200 depending on where you purchase (it is available at many retailers, including QVC and Clarisonic’s own website.) This is a great tool for home use and in these times of tightening our budgets, IMPO Pros think the Clarisonic is a sound investment!

We also highly recommend this product for teens; this patented technology gently removes stubborn dirt and oil on a teens’ skin and is convenient to use. One charge will last 30 uses. The unit is waterproof and may be stored and used in the shower. The handheld unit also guides the user with a beep to indicate movement to the next quadrant of the face.

I guess you could say IMPO is in love...again!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Let's do a little math shall we...

Jane gets a facial twice a month (cause the Pro said so and she doesn't tell Dick) which costs her anywhere from $75 to $200 per month. Jane recently lost her job. Now, boys and girls how much does Jane spend a year on treatment? IMPO by no means thinks that using a Clarisonic will replace the luxury and self-indulgence of an aesthetician’s touch. However, perhaps you (and Jane) can’t go as often as you used to for whatever reason (be it job loss or grumpy husband who has found your credit card statement) so at least your skin won’t suffer the consequences of the credit crunch!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Are you...special? Of course you are because you read IMPO! Our Pros tell you all about speciality products that are fun, fabulous and fantastic! What exactly is a speciality product? Guess you will have to tune in next time to find out...(insert dramatic music here)!

Tres, Tres Chic & Magnifique!

Sometimes a professional makeup artist lives a glamorous life and gets to travel outside of the confines of the makeup room or trailer to a world more incredible than the one he or she has left behind.

Most individuals think that the career of a Pro MUA is nothing but a jet-setting, couture-wearing, snob-inducing lifestyle filled with indulgences and perks only “common” folk could dream of, but alas, I am here to burst that overly exaggerated and completely false image in your head and bring you back to reality.

Life inside a makeup room or trailer is fun, full of laughter and creativity, but please understand that working as a makeup artist in film, television or photography is nothing short of…WORK!  Hours and hours of work!  Early morning “call times” and late night “last looks” can leave this Pro feeling less than glamorous.

Remember, it is the model, actress or actor that receive all those “favors” from designers, makeup lines, skincare gurus and hairstyle experts.  This Pro is simply a piece of a very fine-tuned puzzle creating the smoke and mirrors that sell magazines or movie tickets!  I won’t fool you…I do reap some benefits, but not the kind that many readers may think!

Please don’t consider for a minute that this Pro is cursing the career I have chosen for the past 20 years (has it really been that long?).  It is the only job I have ever had and would never trade for all the Prada in the world, but it can be stressful, time consuming and sometimes I shoot in the most “unglamorous” locations you could ever imagine (like the State Prison)!

Recently, my MUA Fairy Godmother answered my prayers and blessed me with a very tres, tres chic makeup job, which would take me to the most fashionable and enchanting city in the world…Paris! 

Faster than sweeping Chanel Lipstick on Giselle, I was packed and on a plane bound for France with a smile on my face and plenty of Evian spritz for the 12-hour flight (not to mention many, many more skin reviving serums).

Paris is filled with women who can only be described in one word…magnifique!  They ride bikes in 4-inch Christian Louboutins, they eat baguettes, they smoke, they drink, and they always, always look incredible!  They are fabulous and their skin is amazingly flawless!  How do they do it?

Mingling amongst the people of Paris I learned a few secrets…the French live life to the fullest everyday, they worship experiences more than money and they spend their hard-earned dollars on top-notch products!  Quality over quantity is their motto!

I started to think about all of the incredible French skincare and makeup lines and thought it was time to start adapting a more Parisian lifestyle.  During my time off from the set, I wondered the streets of Paris and photographed the people and places this city has birthed.  I ventured into boutiques that carried expensive concoctions that tickled my senses and revived my tired skin!

I started with a brand called Talika, which was given to me by a very generous person who heads-up the companies PR both in the United States and Europe.  In researching this product line I discovered that this brand was created in 1948 by doctor Danielle Roches, in the ophthalmologic department of the famous Paris hospital, Hopitaux de Paris.  She began her career by developing an antibacterial cream with plant extracts that help cure individuals suffering from dramatic face and eye burns due to war casualties.

I was given several products for the eye area and nails including: Eye Detox Contour Gel, Eye Dream, Eye Therapy Patches and Nail Regenerator Serum.  The first thing I noticed about this product line is the packaging.  Parisian skincare and makeup packaging feels different when you hold it in your hands.  It is weightier, classic in design, sturdy and very appealing to the eye.  It is not “flashy” or over exaggerated.

Eye Dream was the first product I tried because my skin was more than dehydrated from the travel, lack of sleep and airplane food (even though I put a ton of care into my skin) and because I completely agree with the information found on the Talika website quoting, “sleep is often considered an underrated and ignored wellness necessity of life!” 

Also, “sleep is the body in recovery mode, during sleep the delicate skin around the eyes loses up to 50% of its moisture and is most biologically receptive to external hydration and nourishing ingredients.”  Eye Dream provides that renewal and it is a short-term eye treatment.  To quote, “Eye Dream transforms bedtime into an 8-hour long spa treatment for the eyes!”  I couldn’t rip opening the packaging fast enough!

I am still in the process of using the Eye Dream treatment (on day 10 of the recommended 28 days) but I am noticing a decrease in my deep wrinkles and the elasticity of my skin seems to be improving.  I can’t wait to also try the Eye Detox Contour Gel, which claims to fade the appearance of bags and dark circles and the Eye Therapy Patches, which is also supposed to reduce dark circles, wrinkles, puffiness and scars.

As far as the Nail Regenerator Serum also by Talika, if you are anything like me, your nails get dry and brittle during travel and in the summer time.  This product has been a lifesaver!  It has rejuvenated and hydrated my nails and cuticles.  This Pro highly recommends this product and I will continue to use this treatment throughout the summer months.  Plus I plan on purchasing another tube during the severely dry winter season in order to ensure that my nails will stay nourished!

If you are an avid reader of IMPO then you know that this Pro carries a variety of makeup lines in my kit, but I have a few products that I use time and time again because of pigmentation, wear-ability, blend-ability and stamina.  One of those go-to lines is IL-Makiage, which is a French cosmetic company with an extensive product display specializing in every color of the rainbow!

When I need to match the colors in a peacock’s feather, the blue of the Caribbean ocean or the exact red of Santa Claus’ suit, I turn to IL-Makiage because I know that this product will provide me with amazing hues and top-of-the-line quality.

I discovered IL-Makiage during research for a photo shoot many moons ago and it has been a “staple” in my kit ever since.  Ilana Harkavi is the beauty behind this cosmetics line and it has been deemed the “makeup artist’s makeup line!”

With over 500 shades, all-in-one products to simplify application and textures that make any high-fashion photo shoot a breeze; this product line is also priced competively with other American-brands.  IL-Makiage will be celebrating their 40-year anniversary in 2012 and Ilana is known for sharing her makeup secrets with some of today’s most sought after artists, including Bobbi Brown and Dick Page.

There are many other French designed makeup lines that have this Pro’s seal of approval namely Dior, Nars and Avene.  If there is one thing I have discovered over the past 20 years as a Pro MUA, it is that I don’t need to stock my kit with tons of makeup and skincare in order to give a model, actress or actor a flawless look, but I do need product that will perform in front of the camera just as much as the person wearing it will give a quality performance!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Money is always a big issue and today it seems as if it is bigger than ever before, my tips and tricks for this particular post is to encourage our readers to spend their money wisely and purchase quality product regardless where it is manufactured.  Do your research and choose skincare and makeup that will treat and enhance your face.  Take good care of your skin and it will reward you for many years to come!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO:  All the glitz and glamour that was the Los Angeles IMATS!  You won’t want to miss this post!

Close Encounters!

High Definition, High Def, HD, what ever you call it, the denotation of these words or initials means only one thing: close encounters!  In the professional makeup industry, shooting in HD has become standard.  Every production company, television and photography studio or film sound stage is able to shoot in high definition and makeup artists have spent many hours perfecting their craft in order to answer this call.

What does High Definition really mean?  In television terms, high definition means that a television sees more lines per picture than standard.  525 lines per image was the average for American television until recently when high definition became the norm, bumping the number of lines up to 1000 per image.  Talk about a moment of clarity!  Literally!

Initially, professional MUAs panicked when forced to work on high definition and celebrities reacted in the same manner.  Airbrushing, which was originally used for body painting, tanning, special effects or tattoo cover, started to become a popular tool for face application when working in this medium.  However, our industry has learned that it is truly the artist’s technique whether utilizing an airbrush or traditional applicators and the use of exceptional skin prepping products that enhance the look of an actor, actress or model and not necessarily if the makeup brand is made for HD use.

It is also important to understand that a makeup artist works closely with the DP (lighting director), as well as with other key crewmembers and conducts several camera tests prior to shooting, which makes for a successful high definition production. 

We have also learned that because high def is really an intense sharpness of an image, a makeup artist’s traditional bag of tricks needs to be “tweaked” slightly.  Cosmetics need to be more translucent and have a modest reflective quality.  An extremely heavy product will show on the surface of the skin in HD unless blended properly or made more opaque and “built” onto the skin with a light hand in order to cover discoloration.

So, how does wearing high definition makeup benefit the consumer?  First, I think it is important to remind the shopper that the majority of cosmetic companies are under pressure when it comes to innovation.  The beauty industry is saturated with products and a cosmetic line must find a niche that can be filled and set them apart from the others.

Naturally, with all the hoopla about HD, major cosmetic brands jumped on the bandwagon and now offer an alternative to standard cream, liquid or powder foundations, concealers and face powders, which they claim will mimic the effect of a professional makeup artist’s technique.

When you hear the term HD what do you think?  This Pro thinks “perfect skin!”   But, because I am a Pro, I know that no one has perfect skin!  My job is to create that illusion and I have several tricks up my sleeve that I use in order to achieve this goal.  

Several cosmetic brands on the current market offer their version of HD products and here is a list of this Pro’s favorites:

Make Up Forever: Danny Sanz is the brain behind this brand and it’s HD product line.  She is a professional makeup artist with a resume and portfolio that screams “A-Lister!”  This line was originally created for actors and actresses to keep their complexion flawless in 6X magnification and it comes in a three-part series: Primer (which are colored for correction purposes), Foundation (for improving the skin texture) and Powder (with Silica which is more translucent than talc).  This product is also packed with nourishing ingredients that help to minimize pores, which improves the overall appearance of the skin and will correct issues effectively.

Dior: Capture Totale is a foundation that is manufactured differently than standard liquid foundation and the pigments used in creating the color of this product are unique, in that they are more genuine to natural skin tone.  Have you ever noticed that certain foundations seem to have a “grey” hue to them?  That is because of a mixture of pigment and the manufacture’s formulation called for “black” – too much black pigment = a grey undertone.  Do you know anyone who is of good health that walks around on this earth with a grey undertone?  Neither do I.   Dior’s Capture Totale Foundation while expensive is worth the money.  It is also a treatment (hence the price tag) and helps reverse the signs of aging skin.

Smashbox: High Definition Healthy FX Foundation is a product that this Pro has found to be great alternative to the higher priced cosmetic lines.  It offers wonderful antiaging ingredients, is oil-free and feels weightless on the skin, plus it contains a built in SPF 15, which provides extra sun protection.  This product is offered in a variety of skin tones so finding your perfect match should be easy.

The benefits to using one of the above lines is that you are ensuring that your skin is receiving proper nutrients and protectants while your imperfections are being covered.  Thus, giving you the vehicle to produce perfect skin like a Pro MUA, but you must make sure you apply the product correctly.  Bad application of a good product will make you look horrible and feel as if you have wasted your money.

Here is the how-to for HD makeup application:

1.              Prep with skin care accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye cream, primer, sunscreen, etc.) and let absorb into the skin.  Remember: primer is what erases lines and pores on the skin so apply last and prior to makeup.

2.              Apply foundation and blend into the skin (make sure that your foundation is an exact match to your neck color).

3.              Apply concealer if needed and blend.  Remember: concealer is used on extreme discolored areas of the face and only if the foundation did not cover up the imperfection.  You don’t always need it!

4.              Apply setting powder with a light hand to absorb excess oil by buffing the product gently into the skin using a circular motion and powder brush.

5.              Blend, blend, blend – everything!! All makeup must be blended so as to create the illusion of perfect skin and to erase any heavy lines of demarcation!  This applies to foundation, concealer and all powder products (eye shadow, blush, etc.).

You will want to invest in a great brush line.  It will benefit your application technique and cut blending time in half.  Please see archive post entitled Brush Off for this Pro’s recommendations.

If you are attempting the use of a Make Up Forever color primer/corrector here are the rules:

Neutral – adds luminosity to the complexion

Green – minimizes redness (rosacea)

Mauve – cuts sallow undertones

Caramel – combats ashiness in dark skin tones with golden undertones

Blue – adds radiance to fair skin

Yellow – lightens dark complexions

Pink – brightens complexion and counteracts sallow undertones

It is strongly suggested by this Pro that you seek the advice of a trained Make Up Forever sales professional prior to purchasing this product for proper matching and application technique.

Good High Definition Cosmetic products offer amazing skin care, coverage, luminosity and protection from the elements in one bottle!

So…I guess the real question is, “do you need HD makeup?”  I don’t know…do you?  Do you feel that you are living your life in HD?  Obviously!  We all are…everyday! Our eyes see the world in HD!  Every wrinkle, line and imperfection!  Is that such a bad thing?  The answer lies within you!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

When working in high definition there is one more rule that a skilled MUA will never forget - NO GLITTER!  HD picks up every sparkle, twinkle and dazzle so we leave the glitter for more special-effect type of photo shoots.  Instead, this Pro will opt for a slight shimmer in a product and will place that shimmer in areas of the face that light would naturally "bounce" off of, such as the highlight of the cheek or brow bone.

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO:  Baby it's hot ouside!  With summer closing in learn how make your cosmetics last all day!  It's no sweat!