Runway To Real Way!

When some of the most creative and artistic designers are all put under one roof (or tent), an explosion of fabulous fashion and mind blowing makeup are the result. In other words, Fashion Week!

New York Fashion Week is the mecca for all things fashion and beauty related. It holds artists at such a high standard and allows for a true expression of art, whether it be with a needle and thread or a makeup brush.

Pro makeup artists like me keep an “idea” folder that contains a wide array of beauty looks, colors and trends. It’s my Look Book that I go to when in need of inspiration. A lot of the pictures inside of my folder are from past Fashion Weeks and I pull from these looks whether I am working a photo shoot, film or television show.

While some of the looks sported on the runway are not exactly everyday wear, they are excellent examples of ways to flex your artistic muscles and not be bound by the day to day routine. Here are samples and how-to info from a few recent runway shows that we love:

For the sleek, clean and polished look above, which would be gorgeous for a night on the town, it’s important to start out by perfecting the skin. Matte skin is in this season, and this model has a flawless finish played up by fiery red lipstick.

Achieve this look by using a matte finish liquid foundation, like Nars Sheer Matte Foundation. Using a foundation brush to apply it, start from the middle of the face and work out. This will give the most coverage where needed, while still giving your skin a bright radiance that looks healthy and natural.

Red matte lipstick is definitely a product you want to stay put. Blend Smashbox Photo Finish Lid Primer around your lip line for a smudge-proof, waterproof, long wearing lip color that won’t feather or bleed. Lipstick Queen has a waterproof Lip Liner that is still moisturizing to your lips. Colors Red or Rouge applied all over the lip will ensure a long lasting pout.

Want a little sheen on those lips? Apply Lipstick Queen's Chinatown Glossy Pencil in Thriller over the lip pencil. It is a draw-on gloss packed into a chubby pencil that is great for touch ups.

You should also leave the eyes simple by using one color shadow in a neutral vanilla shade and add a few coats of black mascara, then contour the cheekbones with a light bronzer to define and help structure the roundness of the face.

High fashion makeup always pushes the limits when it comes to bold colors. To wear one of these looks, refer back to your handy color wheel. Wearing complimentary colors on the eye, cheek and lips will fuse the look together and actually bring out the bold bright colors even more.

Overblending can be the downfall of a dramatic look. Blend with the brush containing the color and then take a clean blending brush, preferably smaller, and sharpen up the area. Using a clean brush will help keep the lines of color clear and more defined. And the smaller brush also helps you get in those nooks and crannies of the eye.

Get high impact color by layering cream liner or cream shadow under powder shadows. Nars cream shadows in Zardoz and Nomad would be great bases for the eye look above. Pack on color using a dense and full, flat brush and pat color into the cream before blending.

I prefer cream blushes under powder blush because not only does the color look more vibrant, it lasts longer, especially for those with oily skin. Eve Pearl's new HD Foundation Cream Blush Trio are three gorgeous colors (a peach, pink and bronze) that can add instant warmth to any cheek. These blushes are packed with pigment and are buildable on the face. Blend Gingersnap powder blush from Smashbox Cosmetics over the cream blush to achieve a warm cinnamon glow.

If you want to try a hot pink cheek, like the Marc Jacobs model below, go with the just re-launched Radiance blush from Smashbox. It’s a bold color in the container, but can be worn lightly for a soft flush, or packed on for a "doll" like pink. It is also perfect as an eyeshadow to compliment this look.

Draw out that long liner to the hairline using a liquid liner to create a border. Nars makes a felt tip liner called Eyeliner Stylo that gives a perfect line with ease. Match up M.A.C’s Sketch eyeshadow in the crease with Make Up For Ever’s Lavender 9 eyeshadow as a base.

At the other end of the spectrum, the clean, fresh face sometimes graces the runways. Some may think this requires virtually no makeup or time, but its quite the opposite! It can take longer because any flaw or unblended concealer streak will show.

The model above has a dewey bronze finish. Start out by using a sheer foundation to even out skin tone like DiorSkin AirFlash Spray Foundation, which is a foundation in an aerosol can that gives an airbrushed effect to the skin. Set lightly with a translucent powder in the t-zone.

The naked makeup face is nothing without being contoured. Use a matte finish bronzer, like Orlane Paris Bronzing Powder or even a nude tone eyeshadow two shades darker than your skin and contour below the cheekbone, around the hairline at the forehead, under the chin, tip of the nose, and lightly on each side of the nose from the brow. Complete the look by brushing the brows upward in a natural form and keep in place with brow gel like Anastasia’s Clear Brow Gel.

If looking for a bit of color or shimmer to add to this look, try a light cinnamon toast color washed acrossed the eyelid and a matte lip stain just one shade slightly darker than your natural lip. Try Kevin Aucoin’s Expert Lip Tint in Falon for a perfect nude shade.

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

To remove all of the above makeup looks in a "flash" use M.A.C. Wipes! Swipes away makeup, dirt and grim in a red hot minute! These wipes contain a M.A.C. cleanser and toner along with Vitamin E to help protect and hydrate the skin.

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Think being a makeup artist is all glitz and glam? Well...we've got news for you! Tag along behind-the-scenes of recent music video shoots and see what products the Pros use and how they handle doing makeup in "odd" places!

Post written by Cathi Singh - freelane makeup artist, Smashbox Cosmetics representative and Contributing Pro for In My Professional Opinion blog. All cosmetic product listed above was purchased by Cathi for her professional kit or given as gratis for her to use on her clients.

Get the Look - Rocker Chick!

“Rock and Roll is one of these jobs where you sort of live in this strange world of not really ever growing up but having to grow up at the same time!” – Joan Jett, Elle Magazine 2009.

You don’t have to love the sound of guitar-thrashing music to look like someone who does! Rock n roll babes give off a sexy, rebellious scent along with an “I don’t care what people think of me” vibe!

This makeup Pro is a lover of the classy yet hard-core rock chicks like Joan Jett, Ann and Nancy Wilson or Suzi Quatro and I adore the characters actresses like Jennifer Aniston (Rock Star) and Kate Hudson (Almost Famous) have portrayed on the big screen! And who doesn’t love the sultry look of Kate Moss strutting her stuff on the catwalk?

Those women could pick up a guitar and microphone and have us rocking out instantly or make us jealous of their abilities to charm the bad boy musician we so desperately wanted in our beds!

These ladies are the muses of song lyrics and the inspirations of designers. They give off the impression of total confidence, with a hint of “I could kick your ass without even smearing my eyeliner” charm!

You move out of their way when they strut down the street and you watch in amazement as a crowded dance floor parts like the Red Sea to make room for a rock goddess who wants to shake her groove thing!

They intimidate, frighten and bully. They are self-assured, bold and poised. They smell of sex, drugs and rock n roll and we want to be them, we want to live their lifestyles, but only for a few hours!

To go with your traditional rock star wardrobe consisting of a studded jacket, leather pants, ripped t-shirt, boots and to match your seductive tousled hairstyle, you must have a certain makeup look to complete your transformation.

The smoky eye is always a good choice and works well day or night. It is almost expected that a gorgeous, dangerous, bad-ass girl would be rocking the dark shadow and black eyeliner.

If you admire a certain femme fatale and want to reproduce her style, there are cosmetic products that can give you a fresh-faced Penny Lane appearance or an “I just-rolled-out-of-bed-with-some-drummer” look! Either way, everyone will know that “you’re with the band!”

When this Pro wants to put her best rock star face forward, I reach for the following:

Dior - DiorSkin AirFlash Spray Foundation - gives the look of flawless skin with a subtle glow and leaves you with an airbrushed effect. Completely evens out the skin tone and diminishes fine lines and wrinkles. Apply by spraying onto a sponge and blend. Rocker chicks are totally ageless; this product will keep people guessing how old you really are!

Eve Pearl - Pressed Powder - is a sheer powder that eliminates shine and adds highlights while removing discolorations and redness from the skin. Apply with a powder puff using a blotting motion or with a large, fluffy brush. This powder is perfect for travel and is in a very slim compact that will tuck into the pocket of your skinny jeans or snake-skin clutch!

Kevyn Aucoin Beauty – The Precision Brow Pencil - is made of the thinnest point on the market, which allows you to draw individual lash hairs precisely to create a natural look. Gorgeous brows shape the eyes and give them a lift making the face appear younger and fresher. All rocker chicks know how to speak with their eyes and having amazing eyebrows send many messages without uttering a word!

Kat Von D – True Romance Eyeshadow Palettes - in Ludwig, Beethoven and Metal Orchestra are packed with tons of colors that will embrace any mood from pin-up perfection or rocker chic! Embrace your inner bad girl and boost your confidence 100%! Use various sizes of eye shadow brushes for application.

Eve Pearl – Black Pearl Smudgeproof Liquid Eyeliner – this is a very black color that applies easily, dries quickly, but allows you plenty of time to smoke it out! It will let you forget about checking on your makeup every 20 minutes and keep your sights on what is really important…catching the eye of that lead singer! Warning: your new rocker boyfriend may steal this from your makeup bag!

Dior - DiorShow Mascara - just like our rock n roll legends, this mascara is truly iconic! With a cult following as big as the Rocky Horror Picture Show, you will be doing the “Time Warp” again and again while your ultra-glam, runway-length lashes flirt throughout the night! Curl lashes prior to application if necessary.

Orlane Paris – Bronzing Pressed Powder – every rock n roll beauty loves to indulge in luxury and they also sport killer cheekbones! To achieve both those goals, reach for this silky powder that will instantly sculpt your face and brighten your skin all year around! Apply with fan brush for sculpting or large powder brush for overall dusting.

Nars – Blush – add a sheer wash of highlight and color onto the cheeks using shades like Orgasm, Deep Throat or Luster. These colors will add a super sexy flush to your cheeks that will give off the effect of basking in the afterglow of a backstage “quickie!” Apply with fan brush for light application or traditional blush brush for more color.

Dior - Crème de Gloss - is the ultimate creamy lipstick in a gloss! Deeply moisturizing, this gloss is lush, sensuous and gives rich color with a sexy shine. A true rock goddess would love shades like Red Venetian Satin 851, Sweet Praline 341 or Beige Elixir 611.

Now that you have collected your cosmetic arsenal, here are the how-to’s:

Fresh-Face - “Penny Lane is in my ears and in my eyes. There beneath the blue suburban skies.” Remember Kate Hudson’s Penny Lane muse from the movie Almost Famous? Her character’s makeup was created by artist Lois Burwell, who wanted to keep Kate angelic, but play up her eyes and smile.

Like a “blue jean baby, L.A. lady, seamstress for the band, pretty eyed, pirate smile, you’ll marry a music man…” This Pro would recreate Kate’s character by:

1. Start out with applying the DiorSkin AirFlash to create flawless skin.

2. Setting with Eve Pearl’s Pressed Powder.

3. Fill in brows with Kevyn Aucoin pencil.

4. Lightly apply Orlane’s Bronzer along the cheekbone, jaw line and add a very light sweep of Nars blush in Luster to the apples of the cheeks.

5. Using the Kat Von D Palette in Ludwig, keep the eye shadow natural by using Tequila on lid, Downtown to define crease and Clay to highlight brow bone. Use Downtown to line lower lash line.

6. Line very close to the upper lash line with Eve Pearl’s Black Pearl liner applied lightly. Blend softly into lash line.

7. Two coats of DiorShow Mascara to top lashes only.

8. Light application of Dior Crème de Gloss in Sweet Praline 341.

Voila! A tiny dancer is in my hand…

Retro 80’s – “I love rock n roll, so put another dime in the jukebox baby, I love rock n roll so come and take your time and dance with me!” Joan Jett is an American rock guitarist, singer, songwriter, producer and actress. Gorgeous and hard-edged, she is a rock n roll legend.

“A girl can do what she wants to do and that’s what I’m gonna do!” To recreate Joan’s Bad Reputation image circa 1982 start with:

1. Follow Steps 1, 2 and 3 from above.

2. Apply Orlane Bronzer starting near the ear area and sweep downward under cheekbone, stopping two-finger widths from the nose. You can be slightly heavy handed with the bronzer. Sweep Nars Deep Throat from the temples downward along cheek and blend in with bronzer. Leave apples of cheeks nude.

3. Using Kat Von D Palette in Beethoven, create a deep, rich blend of shadows by using Sinner on lid, Rad Purple in crease and Galeano on brow bone. Use Rad Purple to line lower lash line. Blend.

4. Apply Eve Pearl’s Black Pearl liner starting in the middle of the upper lash line and create a thin line that gets thicker toward the outer corner of the eye. Keep the line very thin toward the inner corner. Create a cat-eye effect by sweeping liner up slightly at outer corner. Blend.

5. Three coats of DiorShow Mascara and apply one coat to bottom lashes.

6. Dior Crème de Gloss in Red Venetian Satin 851 and apply a neutral color lip pencil like Julie Hewett’s Omit before using the gloss to prevent bleeding.

You might as well face it, your addicted to love and the 80’s!

Modern Glam - Kate Moss is the ultimate supermodel and she has been engaged to some very famous musicians and actors; Johnny Depp and Pete Doherty! She has also been the face of Calvin Klein, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, YSL, Chanel, Dior and Rimmel. She has graced the covers of Vogue, Vanity Fair and W and as notorious as her high-profile relationships, is her party lifestyle!

To recreate Kate’s bad-girl, skinny jean, thigh-high boot wearing look begin with:

1. Follow Steps 1, 2 and 3 from above.

2. Lightly apply Orlane Bronzer starting near the ear area and sweeping downward under the cheekbone, stopping two-finger widths from the nose. Dust Nars Orgasm lightly on the apples of the cheeks. Blend.

3. Using Kat Von D Palette in Metal Orchestra, blend Dagger onto the lid area, add Glock and Thrasher on top of Dagger and blend. Take Lucifer and Razor Gray and blend into the crease and outer corner. Apply First Class to brow bone and blend. Use Lucifer along lower lash line and smudge.

4. Apply Eve Pearl’s Black Pearl in a thick line along upper lash line and smudge.

5. Three coats of DiorShow Mascara and one coat to bottom lashes.

6. Dior Crème de Gloss in Beige Elixir 611, the ultimate nude lip color!

As RuPaul would say…"you better work (cover girl) work it girl (give a twirl) do your thing on the “runway!”

No matter which type of rock chick you choose to be: remember to be creative with your makeup, which will bring an air of instant mystery and edgy-glam to your world!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Change up the mood by breaking away from the normal charcoal hues of the traditional smoky eye and go for something a little more colorful like purples, greens, blues or earth tones, but the colors must be deep. Bright eye shadow tends to give off a very neon vibe, which is more in line with your punk rock days, then the bang-your-head persona!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Keeping it clean! We've discovered how to keep your powdered products fresh and clean even if you use them every day! Don't miss our next post featuring information on how to prolong the life of your cosmetic investments!

Crème de la Crème!

The history of makeup dates back to 3500 BC when usage by the 1st Dynasty of Egypt decided that decorating a person’s eyes, cheeks and lips was consider a statement of royalty. Later, the Roman philosopher Plautus wrote, “A woman without paint is like food without salt.” However, by the 1800s makeup was mainly worn by prostitutes and Queen Victoria declared to the public that makeup was improper, vulgar and unacceptable (unless you were an actor - then it was mandatory). Whew!

Well, today’s cosmetic industry is estimated at $19 billion! That is how much we spend on making ourselves “lovely!” We have come a long way since ladies “pinched” their cheeks to look youthful and we are given a wide variety of makeup choices. Liquids, powders, gels or crèmes that come in compacts, jars and tubes are all at our fingertips! All we have to do is decide on color, texture, ingredients, smell and sometimes, taste!



Rouge (which is French for Red) or as we say in more modern times, Blush is a cosmetic that women have used for centuries and in some cases men too! Ages ago people would crush mulberries, strawberries or use red beet juice to stain their lips and cheeks. It is so much easier to stroll casually into Sephora, Nordstrom, Neiman’s or the everyday drug store and purchase something sparkly, glittery, matte or shimmery. It’s so emotional, it’s so personal and it’s so necessary!



This Pro is a lover of crème blushers and eye shadows! With summer just around the corner, I will be switching to my favorite crème de la crème mainly because that when I am not on set, I plan on spending many hours at the pool, beach and river and I want to look my best without worrying about if makeup is running down my face. Plus, how many women do you see checking their faces in the mirror or primping at the beach? I hope you are going to say “none!”

Crème shadows and blusher require very little touch up and some formulas are sweat-proof, crease-proof and water-resistant. Plus, they are great for women (like me) that have more mature and/or dry skin.

We all know that adding blush to your face is the quickest skin pick-me-up and it is essential for a fresh look. Applying a crème blush should be the first makeup you put on your face either on its own or after your foundation and concealer.

Let’s start by choosing a crème blush shade perfect for your skin tone by using this helpful guide:

Fair skin – peach or pink



Medium skin – coral or rose



Dark skin – bold, bright shades



As for crème eye shadows, refer to this guideline:

In your 20’s – anything goes – glitter, shimmer, pearly
In your 30’s – sophisticated with a shimmer (glitter should be used sparingly).
In your 40’s – matte colors with a slight hint of shimmer (no glitter)
In your 50’s or over – matte colors

If you are going for an everyday look or you want to add a little color to your face while sunning at the pool or beach, crème blush and shadow are best when kept neutral and natural. In other words, save the Aqua blue shadow and bright pink blush for those hot disco nights a la Miami Beach!



Here is the quick how-to:

1. Apply skin care accoutrement (serum, moisturizer, eye crème, primer) and let soak into the skin for 10 minutes.

2. Apply full-face or spot apply foundation, tinted moisturizer and/or concealer. DO NOT SET WITH POWDER (crème products on top of powder is a big makeup NO, NO!!!).

3. Using fingertips or a taklon brush with round tip (like a foundation brush) – apply crème blush lightly and gently “stipple” or “pat” color to apples of cheeks. Build on the color if needed. Do not “sweep” crème blush onto cheeks and don’t rub into the skin (unless you are going for the slapped in the face look).

4. Choose two shades of crème eye shadow – medium tone for lid and lighter tone for brow bone. Again, use fingertips to apply by lightly tapping onto eye area and blending or use taklon brushes. Pro tip: lip brushes work well to apply color to lid area (they are the perfect shape and are small enough to get into the corner of your eyes).

5. Waterproof mascara in black coating upper lashes twice.

6. Set makeup with a light dusting of translucent powder.

7. Lipgloss in a gorgeous shade of your choice.

Voila! You are ready to hit the seashore or other outdoor activity! You can also choose to line your upper lash line with a waterproof liquid liner in a dark chocolate brown (black liner can be a little harsh with this look).



Now here is the how-to bumped up a notch:

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 from above.

3. Apply crème blush using fingertips or brush to apples of cheeks. Apply crème highlight color in a champagne shade to cheek under eye area (where the light would naturally hit). Pro tip: if you are unable to find a champagne tone in a crème blush form then use the crème eye shadow in the same hue!

4. Apply metallic crème shadow in grey and charcoal hues to lid and crease area using fingertips or small taklon brush, creating a smoky eye. Take champagne color shadow and use on brow bone. Apply charcoal color under bottom lash line and smudge.

5. Line eyes with waterproof, liquid liner in black and smudge into upper lash line.

6. Waterproof mascara in black coating upper lashes thrice and lower lashes once for definition.

7. Set with a light dusting of translucent powder.

8. Gloss lips with a gorgeous nude pinky tone.

Voila again! You are ready for a night out on the town (and you can rest assure that your makeup will last longer than your feet will in those Louboutin stilletos)!

Here is a list of this Pro’s personal crème blush and shadow favorites:

Becca – this tint has such rich pigment that it is perfect for any complexion. Super blendable and leaves an effortless, natural-looking finish to cheeks. Packed with anti-oxidant vitamin E and it is both preservative and paraben-free. Favorite colors: Turkish Rose, Hyacinth, Amaryllis, Dahlia and Terracotta.



Kevyn Aucoin The Creamy Moist Glow – this blush creates a sheer wash of color on the cheeks for a radiant, youthful vitality to the skin. Adds a healthy glow or slight flush. Pro picks: Bliss (rosy pink), Tansoleil (sheer apricot) and Nuelle (soft peachy nude).



Nars The Multiple – this product is an all-in-one, multi-purpose makeup stick. This product will highlight, sculpt, warm eyes, cheeks, lips and body! Talk about your one-stop shop and big bang for your buck! This Pro’s must have colors: Orgasm (peachy, pink shimmer), Malibu (pinkish brown), Riviera (sheer pink), Portofino (shimmering coral), South Beach (shimmering apricot) and St. Barts (taupe shimmer).



Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow/Liner – guaranteed to make you gorgeous as you shade and line your peepers! Total multi-tasking product that will contour and highlight your eyes for a sheer or dramatic look. Smudge-proof, crease-proof formula. The Lana are light neutral shades, The Gabbi are medium neutral shades and The Betty are deep neutral shades. My favorites: The Lana in Birthday Suit (brushed chrome), Bunny Hop (pale pink), R.S.V.P. (champagne) – The Gabbi in Get Figgy (frosted heather) and Skinny Jeans (pewter) – The Betty in Busy Signal (brown) and Strut (smoky denim).



Shu Uemura Cream Eye Shadow – this is a very soft, blendable, waterproof eye shadow that provides an intense color payoff! Non-creasing formula with high-impact results. Use to create a refined, natural look or a dramatic nighttime eye! Pro can’t live withouts: M Black (matte jet black), M Sand Brown (matte taupe beige), P Taupe (pearly silver) and if you really want to have some fun, try P Light Blue (pearly icy pale blue), P Light Green (light yellow green) or P Pink (light neutral pink).



PRO TIPS & TRICKS:
Are you in love with a vibrant shade of crème shadow or blush, but just can’t see wearing it on your eyes or cheeks because of the intensity? Try wearing it on your lips! Apply a lip balm first as a base and to cut color pigmentation, apply color and last, apply a clear, shiny lipgloss!



STAY TUNED:
Up next on IMPO: Are you a mineral makeup girl? Then you won’t want to miss our post on Purely Cosmetics!