Back to School - Teen Queen II

This Pro is not only a makeup artist, but I am a mom too and more importantly, I have teenagers! In a past IMPO post titled Teen Queen, I mentioned a few of my “pet peeves” when it comes to teen girls who must put loads of makeup on their pretty faces in order to feel confident or to “fit in!” This post will be a little different, it is time to go back to school and that means it is time to help your teen get prepped for the upcoming year.

As parents we shop for new clothes, school supplies and other back to school “must haves,” but have you ever stopped to consider that now is the perfect time to replenish your teen’s supply of skincare and makeup?

Go through your teen’s accoutrement of facial wash, moisturizer, sunscreen and all cosmetics. Throw out the gross, expired, crusted, stinky product and shop for some new items. And, it is o.k. for your teen to express herself when it comes to her individual look. Embrace her differences, encourage her to play up her most outstanding features (eyes, lips, skin) and help her cover those areas that she feels are embarrassing, like acne or other skin issues.

When I was a teenager I wanted to change my looks so badly! I didn’t like my face, my hair or the fact that I was 5 feet taller than everyone else! Instead of being guided to appreciate my gorgeous green eyes, high cheekbones or the fact that I had perfect skin at the age of 14, all I wanted was to look like someone else! I hated my nose, my hair was not blonde enough, I was too tall and it took several agonizing years before I was able to be thankful for what I was born with!

Junior High is the worst time for teens! High school is a little easier, but not much. Your teen is in desperate need for a parent’s approval and attention, but at the same time, she or he wants their independence and privacy! Others who are huge influences surround them and if you are not careful, your teen will latch on to someone they think is the ultimate and that can spell disaster.

I try hard to be the “cool” mom by listening to my teenager’s needs; feelings, anxieties and I try to help however I can. Sometimes all I can do is listen and offer good old mom advice like, “tomorrow will be a better day!” And one of the most important things I do is to accept and inspire my teen’s individuality.

Now, I am not an expert and I am not here to lecture anyone who is reading this blog post, but I am going to advise other parents in my position to set aside a few dollars and go shopping for products that will boost your teen’s confidence and help them brave a new school year.

It is worth every penny and it is an investment in the one person who will not appreciate your effort on the outside, but on the inside loves you more than you know! That is tough love, but I’ll take it!

This Pro has tested more beauty products for teens than I ever care to admit and I will tell you that most have gone straight into the garbage because they either clog the pores of the skin or they damage the hair or they make beautiful, young ladies look like tramps.

But, there are many products that I do love and have given to my own teens to wear and use with much success. Here is a list of the “goods” that have this Pro’s seal of approval:

Jan Marini Teen Clean – this skincare line is top notch and helps to fight all adolescent skin concerns. This is a 3-step program that includes a wash, lotion and daily face protectant. It is amazing on skin that is changing and developing and that may be suffering from more major acne issues. Jan Marini says, “most sun damage occurs before the age of 10 and at least 80% of sun damage happens before the age of 18!” I cannot stress enough the importance of giving your daughter or son a good skincare regime that includes proper sunscreen. Think about it – did your mom make you wash your face every morning and night and apply sunscreen before you left for school? How do you feel about your own skin right now? Enough said!

Dermalogica Clean Start – this product line does not have a bejeweled jar or glittered packaging like most teens love however, what it does have is a star-studded following and user base like the cast from The Suite Life of Zack and Cody and Wizards of Waverly Place. The kit contains a foaming cleanser, toner, scrub, two daytime moisturizers, a nighttime moisturizer, spot treatment for blemishes and a lip moisturizer. It does not have a sunscreen so you will want to purchase a facial protectant to accommodate this regime. I like this line for more dry to normal skin with few acne issues.

It is important to instill in your teen the effectiveness of cleansing and you must show them how to maintain, prevent breakouts and protect their skin everyday. Starting them off with good skin habits will last a lifetime and when they are in there 30’s they will thank you for nagging them!

Foundation, concealer and powder are part of the skincare team and it is mandatory to purchase good cosmetic formulas that are made to work along side your skincare and not against it! Mineral lines are great for teens and the only line that I approve of is Purely Cosmetics.

Purely Cosmetics is great for teen skin because it contains 100% natural ingredients that have no bismuth, talc, micronized minerals or other skin irritants. This product line is formulated by hand to match the exact skin tone and it will effectively cover minor to major skin blemishes without clogging the pores. Purely’s color line is not full of sparkles or glitter so allowing your teen to wear the latest colors from the runway won’t be as intense (even though that is what she wants)!

One of the tricks that I have taught my teens is to use an all over neutral wash of color on the eyes from the lid to the brow bone – like a warm vanilla shade. Then use a more vibrant and fun color to line the top lash line – like a sapphire blue, amethyst, emerald or gray. Black liner will always be a parent’s nemesis, but it is time to make peace with that enemy and either encourage your daughter (and now your son with guy liner) to only line the top lash line or inside, bottom water line and use more neutral colors as eye shadow.

Mascara can be any drug store brand that is easy to remove with soap and water or eye makeup remover. It is up to you which formula you allow your teen to wear and with many mascaras debuting colors for the fall season, you may find that using a pretty blue, green, purple or gray product really makes your teen’s eyes pop instead of the traditional black or brown.

Neutral blush is very important and it is crucial that you encourage your teen to choose a light color in a peach or pink tone or wear no blush color at all opting for the natural flush of their skin tone to show through.

A highlight is not recommended for teens because they tend to go overboard when they apply something with more sparkle and that can be an overwhelming look on any young person (like they were playing in their mother’s makeup)! I don’t want my girls looking like Brooke Shields a la Pretty Baby!

This Pro makeup mom loves the Sephora brand of cosmetics because they have a wide range of color in all textures with great prices! My teens feel as if they are shopping like grown ups instead of being treated like little girls! However, the testers at some of the Sephora stores do not meet with my approval and so I have forbidden my girls to place a “tester” product directly onto their face and insist they use the backs of their hands in order to test product prior to purchasing.

Lipgloss is the only approved product for teens. I do not like the look of a heavy lipstick and lip liner on any young lady. I allow my teens to use pretty colors from M.A.C. or Lancôme Juicy Tubes also score big points from my girls. Even though your teen will constantly be applying and reapplying lipgloss (especially if it smells and tastes like chocolate, strawberry or watermelon), we parents have to pick and choose our battles and as long as the gloss color is not neon yellow, orange, green, blue or red than I say, let this one go!

Now get out there and bond with your teen over a trip to the mall and enjoy the one-on-one time you will have with your offspring! They are growing up fast and you never know, they may end up teaching you a thing or two about beauty products!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

If your teen suffers from very oily skin after they have washed their face properly, have them apply at mattifying product. This Pro loves Eve Pearl’s Anti-Shine product, which goes on after skincare, but before cosmetic. Also, have them use blotting papers during the day to control the shine instead of constantly powdering their face. I love Rodan + Fields UnBlemish blot papers with Zincidone, they will absorb oil without adding product to the face!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: Spotlight on Julie Hewett! Ever wonder what Annette Bening, Jodie Foster, Nicole Kidman or Mandy Moore wears on their face? Step into the world of Julie Hewett and discover exquisite beauty!

Fall Into Beauty!

Professional makeup artists are always on the edge of their seats this time of year! The fall season begins right after New York Fashion Week ends and the beauty manufacturers are bringing out this seasons “must have” products!

The Pros here at IMPO love this time of year and can’t wait to get our hands on all the gorgeous colors the fall season brings. This is the perfect time of year to update our kits and personally rock the latest in lipstick, eye shadow, blush and eyeliner!

Just like a new coat of paint brings an instant lift to the walls of your home, a new season’s makeup collection can renew your spirits and revitalize your confidence. Here is what we love…

Jewel tones are all the rage this fall and holiday season. Think hues of purple, teal, and deep red, not only for your wardrobe, but incorporated into your makeup bag. Achieve that luxurious satin finish using a combination of matte and shimmer eye shadows; best seen in a smoldering smoky eye. Deep chocolates, pewter and soft grays compliment skin tones and are versatile year round.

Bobbi Brown’s Nude Eye Shadow Palette is perfection when it comes to the ideal warm neutral shades. The palette is divided into three matte shades and three corresponding shimmer shades with a satin finish. The darkest matte shade can also double as a liner. Chino is a neutral matte that can be used as contour color for cheeks and forehead.

Combine this palette with Nars lipstick in Fast Ride to complete the sultry "fall" look. The deep mulberry shade is a semi-sheer wash so the color is buildable. Layer it with one of Smashbox’s Nude Lip Pencils (medium or dark) for a darker, more matte lip.

Make sure you snag up that Bobbi Brown Nude Palette and in October, grab Bobbi’s Earth Metal Lip and Eye Palette as well from her Holiday 2009 Collection. Meshing both palettes together by combining the matte shades, shimmer colors and metallic’s will give you hundreds of eye-popping options along with gorgeous creamy lip colors that can be layered and blended together to create a custom look!

Smashbox has unveiled the Reign Collection, featuring two truly decadent eye shadow palettes with three shades, each in a matte and shimmer. These shadows can also be worn wet for a more intense application.

The Majesty Palette from the Reign Collection has a warm vanilla, deep burgundy, and a black shadow. For dual use, apply the burgundy shadow to the high points of cheekbones using a fan brush for a gorgeous blush color. Avoid burgundy eye shadows with too many red or orange undertones, as it will bring out the redness in your eyes. Steer more towards the berry shades.

Pump it up a notch by dabbing gold eye shadow on the center of the eyelid to make the look even more regal. Our favs: Goldmine and Amber Lights by MAC, Ambient by Smashbox, and the Cheyenne Duo eye shadow by Nars, which combines gold and plum in one compact. Add a touch of Lancôme Virtuose Black Carat Gold Mascara, it is a rich inky pigment that coats and curls lashes to spectacular lengths and the formulation contains tiny gold particles!

If you love wearing a dark lip color, try OCC Lip Tar in Plum or Vintage. The stain will stay on all day and you can apply a clear lip gloss for added shine and va-va-voom!

Pair the dark lip with another hot, seasonal trend: gray eye shadow. Mix a matte slate gray like Illamasqua’s Feline with a satin charcoal color like Drama or Incubus, from the same line. Complete the soft look with the new Volume Effet Faux Cils Mascara from Yves Saint Laurent, which is gray mascara.

Insider Secret: If suffering from puffy eyes, apply eye shadow in a darker shade under your bottom lashes. Because dark colors recede, it will give the illusion of a well-slept, bright-eyed beauty!

The red lip never goes out of season, but this fall the colors have more of a red/blue undertone. Don’t know where to purchase the best red colors? Try Lipstick Queen! Feeling innocent? A sheer wash across your lips makes for a pretty pout, in colors Rouge, Wine or Red from the Saints lipstick collection.

Feeling a little more adventurous? Pick a matte finish lipstick from the Sinner collection in Rouge and Red and really step out in style by layering the Hard Core gloss to your pucker. It has an intense pigment and huge shine payoff. Red Sinner and Wine Sinner are our picks.

Lipstick Queen’s creator, Poppy King, says you don’t need much else when wearing a red lip. Opt for a sheer wash of foundation to conceal skin issues, powder to a matte finish, a little pink flush on the cheeks, tight-line the upper lash line only, add mascara and that is it!

The Pros love the look of a "teal" eye and can't wait to get our hands on the shades that Amanda Seyfriend is wearing in the September issue of InStyle Magazine. She has a classic smoky eye, but with a fresh mermaid twist; green! Create the look by using Cle de Peau Beaute Satin eye color in Emerald No. 109, which is a deep pine color that would be amazing layered over a teal Bobbi Brown eye shadow like Bash Metallic. Makeup Pro, Mariel Barrera says, "the key to this look is to blend to death! That way the two colors will melt together!"

The latest edition of Allure Magazine says "cobalt" eyeliner is hot for the fall season and the Pros love this look combined with dark brown eye shadows and a nude pink lip. This eye look is sultry and sexy, which means a filled-in, sculpted brow would be essential. Try Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Smooth Silk Eye Pencil in #3-Blue. It is a silky formula that allows for precise and easy application. Use to fully line both the upper and lower lash line!

Bump up that gorgeous blue eyeliner or a classic black liner by layering Givenchy’s Parad’Eyes Fluid Eye Liner in Elegant Pearl. It is a soft metallic color that will make your eyes bewitching! This is an eye opening liquid with major pigment and it contains a sprinkling of mother-of-pearl particles! Long-lasting intensity that will not run or flake!

Peach cheeks are a must and will work with any of the above mentioned eye looks. This season a bold eye or lip is all the rage, which means a toned-down warm cheek color is necessary to avoid looking overly made up!

We love Julie Hewett’s Cheekie + Shimmy Duo in Peachie/Goldie! This product is so versatile and can be used to highlight your face, eyes, lips and body. Gives a sheer hint of color that will warm your cheeks and freshen up your face. You can apply with your finger; sponge or the Pros recommend using Julie Hewett’s Chubby Cheekie Brush for perfect blending ability!

Don’t forget those nails! The IMPO Pros fell in love with OPI’s deep purple Black Cherry Chutney and shimmery pewter, My Private Jet. Go bold and wear navy blue, purple, gray and even taupe polish.

Whatever products you choose to add to your current collection don't forget that jewel tones add sparkle to any look. They are deep pigments of color not neon or bright! Purchase the right colors and your look will be up-to-date well into the upcoming Holiday Season!

PRO TIPS AND TRICKS:

Our "tip" for this post is to make certain that our readers see The September Issue! A film by R.J. Cutler featuring Anna Wintour and the making of Vogue! "Fashion is a religion, this is the bible!" "Juicy...A great on to watch," Betsy Sharkey, Los Angeles Times, "Immensely enjoyable," Krista Smith, Vanity Fair. Don't miss it!

STAY TUNED:

Up next on IMPO: It's "back to school" time so listen up!!! You are purchasing new clothes and school supplies, but how about new cosmetics and skincare? It is time to clean out and throw out those nasty products that are "so last year!" Get your teen in tip top beauty shape and help boost her confidence at the same time!

Magic Wand!

In the world of makeup artistry as well as in the “real” world, there is an ongoing quest for the perfect mascara!

You can shadow, line, shape, highlight and contour those gorgeous eyes of yours, but until that final swipe of the magic wand from that little tube of glamorous elixir, your look is considered “unfinished” – and that’s a fact!

There are tons of mascaras available to the consumer with formulations that claim to lengthen, curl, extend, and thicken and others that won’t smear, flake, smudge or clump! As a bonus, cosmetic companies also provide us with a variety of “magic wands” to choose from (so many that even Harry Potter would be confused). They come in all shapes, widths and lengths. Curled, fat, hourglass, stubby or thin, these wands will grip, coat, plump, adhere and add volume to your lashes!

Now, with so many choices, which formula and wand is right for you? It is a very personal choice based on personal results, but here is a little information from the Pro to help guide you on your search.

Thickening Mascara – a thick formula designed to make lashes appear fuller. If you feel your lashes are thin or you have sparse lashes then you may find this type of formulation beneficial. These mascaras usually come with a fatter, longer, straight wand.

Lengthening Mascara - thinner formula that will help make lashes longer, but in a way that looks more natural. These mascaras usually come with a thinner, standard width and length wand.

Curling Mascara - lightweight formula that is fused with a technology that curls lashes eliminating the need of an eyelash curler. This mascara usually comes with a curled wand.

Waterproof Mascara - formulated with a technology that will resist water and is great for those who tend to have oily eye areas, find themselves in climates that are extremely humid or for a special occasion, however you will need a special type of eye makeup remover. These mascaras come with a variety of wands depending on the cosmetic company’s claim.

My personal choice is Dior Show Mascara Blackout. It is a lengthening formula with a big, fat, long wand, which gives me amazing results with just one coat of mascara. Dior’s campaign promises “show girl” lashes and/or “the look of false lashes” and for me, this claim rings true. At $24.00 retail, this mascara isn’t cheap, but because of the results on both my clientele and myself I have brand loyalty.



I am also a huge fan of Lancôme’s Definicils-High Definition Mascara. This product gave my lashes great shape and separation with one coat. It has a slimmer, longer brush than Dior Show and it is my back up mascara! Plus Lancôme makes this formulation in Navy, brown or deep brown colors.



Unfortunately, our country is in a recession and I felt it necessary to be a budget-conscious professional so I started to test other mascaras (around 40 or so) and have discovered that there are two drug store brands out there that are on the cheap, but are very chic!

Covergirl’s Lash Blast Mascara - gave my lashes instant volume and fullness as well as length. A great bang for your buck, it comes in an original or waterproof formula with a big, fat, wand!



Max Factor’s 2000 Calorie Mascara - lives up to it’s name and gave my lashes length and separation. This mascara comes with a straight, fat wand or a curved wand depending on your personal preference. Choose the straight wand if you are focusing on lengthy lashes.



TRIX OF THE TRADE:

Mascara should last up to 6 months as a rule however, if your mascara smells funny, chuck it! Eye area is very sensitive to bacteria and old mascara can cause major irritation! Don’t pump that wand ever! Pumping your mascara wand into the tube adds air into the container and will make your mascara dry out faster.

TIME FOR A LITTLE Q & A:

Katie P. wants to know:
I’d love to read your opinion on cake mascara vs. tube mascara.

Pro says:
Great question Katie! I use cake mascara by Le Femme (sold at Cinema Secrets in Burbank, California) when I apply false lashes. I dampen a fan brush with a little bit of Evian Water and sweep the brush back and forth across the mascara. Dab the brush on the back of my hand to remove the excess and apply. The reason cake works best is because the formula and brush doesn’t “pull” the false lashes off of the rim of the lash line and makes adhering the false lash to the real lash easier. It is great to use cake mascara for everyday and the formula is the same as lengthening mascara, but most find it intimidating based on the application. We are programmed to use the wand/tube combination!

Andrea T. wants to know:
Can you recommend mascara for contact lens wearers?

Pro says:
Another fantastic question! While I don’t wear contact lenses, I know plenty of people who do and even a mere flake of mascara is enough to ruin a contact lens and cause the eyes to turn red and irritated! Check out mascaras from the following cosmetic lines: Almay, Covergirl, Lancôme or Clinique (they all claim to be safe for contact lenses). Stay away from lash lengthening mascaras because they tend to have tiny fibers that can get into the eyes.